NORTH CAROLINA: The Poetry of Goats at Carl Sandburg

Like most men, Carl Sandburg’s estate came to be home to goats because of his wife. He might have been a famous poet and biographer of Lincoln, but lets face it, we don’t go to Carl Sandburg’s house to read poetry or devolve into discussions of the Civil War, (I mean, technically Lincoln was on the other side from our perspective anyway).

We go for the goats. Mrs. Sandburg raised Saanen, Toggenburgs, and Nubians for showing and commercial production. Now the park service keeps a herd of about 15 around the place for photo ops and keeping the kids entertained while their parents go on hikes and house tours. So stop by and enjoy some goats that you don’t personally have to feed, raise, and keep in the fence!

As an aside – this is also a great place to go enjoy the rapidly disappearing Eastern Hemlock. These trees line the drive way and there are numerous gorgeous specimens around the property.

Is it goat approved? This isn’t a BYOG. They provide the goats.

How you get there: Park here 35.273330,-82.444616. Then walk in!

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is at best 2.5 miles if you walk everything.  More of a fun day out wandering around than a work out except for 0.5 mile up to Glassy Mountain which is very vertical. Budget some extra time for goat hugs though!

Best season to do this hike: Any time of the year. Remember you get baby goats in spring!


Trails to Take

The paved walkway down from the parking area immediately brings you up to the property’s largest (but by no means only) pond. You can hike around the pond on either side, or continue past the +20yr old concrete bathrooms, across the wooden bridge, and proceed up the driveway to the house in the distance. The driveway is lined with hemlocks and is a climb. If you don’t want as much of a climb go around the pond then up the back trail which comes back around to the house.

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The climb up the driveway through hemlocks

The original farmstead sits at the top of the hill, starting with the main house, (which can be toured – talk to the park rangers hanging out in the basement). There are various outbuildings near the house that were originally slave quarters and later under the Sandburgs became an overflow library and a chicken coop.

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Slave quarters turned chicken quarters

Following the gravel drive another set of restrooms in a white wooden building comes up, followed by a wooden spring house and an equipment shed. Behind the hedges further on lies a classic in ground greenhouse behind a hedge.  Across from green house is a green house that was once the abode of the goat farm manager – because rich people throughout history have always been too lazy to get up and actually deal with the less convenient parts of livestock ownership.

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Next comes the garage and behind it the most important part of the whole trip – the goat barn, (not pictured today because they are in the process of restoring it). When not being restored it has a large open loafing area with hay mangers. The old milking parlor is out back, along with acres of gorgeous pasture that has been managed for grass…because the park service doesn’t really get into goat management, but they know a good looking green lawn when they see one.  It is pretty…

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Buck sheds and vegetable garden

Anyway, the most athletic portion of the trip can be found by taking the path past the garden plots and the buck sheds, through the old fruit tree orchard, and past a small dammed pond.

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First pond behind the apple orchard

The trail splits, so go right and climb up Glassy Mountain on a snaking gravel walk way that pretty much never relents till you get to the top. There is a nice pond about 1/3 of the way up to stop and rest at though.

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Glassy Mountain Overlook

The overlook gives you a good view of the Hendersonville diaspora…then its back to take selfies with goats. Which is what you really came for anyway right?

BE WARNED

  1. The parking is limited and far from the main house. Come early!
  2. While the hike is dog and kid friendly, only the kids can go in to see the goats.
  3. It’s not really a warning, it’s a suggestion – if you like baked goods hit the bakery in Hendersonville before you head home. And the Mast General Store for hiking supplies. It’s a good spot to go on a quick supply run before you head back to the house after a day of goats…

In sum: 

Carl Sandburg’s only known poem about goats, despite a life time of living with them. I get the impression he wasn’t much on the species…

The sober-faced goat crops grass next to the sidewalk.
A clinking chain connects the collar of the goat with a steel pin
driven in the ground.
Next to the sidewalk the goat crops November grass,
Pauses seldom, halts not at all, incessantly goes after the grass.

—Carl Sandburg
from “Suburban Sicilian Sketches”

“Goat Out” at Birkhead Mountains Wilderness

Ever wanted to feel like you’re visiting the mountains without actually doing all the back breaking willpower draining climbing up hill only to slide back down hill, (then find yet another up hill in front of you), that the Appalachian elevations force you to do? Birkhead Mountain Wilderness is your ideal place then. Take the goat out to enjoy some uphills that end before the challenge stops being fun and some downhills that stop before you end up sliding on your butt. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can’t laugh when the goat slides down on its butt when it misjudges the mud under the leaves!

As a nice bonus, if you start off at the Thornburg Trail Head you can visit most of the historical sites in the park. The Birkhead Wilderness once belonged to, no shock here, the Birkhead family, and they rented land out to tenant farmers. Therefore there are several interesting old sites to visit on this hike, and some old road beds to be seen.

Location: Birkhead Mountains Wilderness Area in northern Uwharrie National Forest

Is it goat approved? Yes. I have written proof the really cool forest manager is okay with a goat on a leash. This wilderness area is hiking only  which means there are no bikes, no horses and no all terrain vehicles, so the only on trail obstacles are the occasional backpacker or light hiker, all of which seemed mildly amused at my fuzzy four legged companion. However, be mindful that wilderness area means minimal trail upkeep and more likely run ins with carnivorous wildlife (see Beware section below). Overnight camping is allowed in this wilderness area, which may add to the fun of a trip out to this awesome little slice of heaven.

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The parking area is fenced, and fairly small

How you get there: Oh lord. Just seeing this section makes me cringe. Getting here is a massive pain! You need to be on Lassiter Mill Road. What Google maps, paper maps, and directions online will do a bad job of telling you is that Lassiter Mill Road crosses Hwy 49 on a bridge rather than intersecting with the highway, which is a very unusual arrangement for North Carolina Piedmont roads. So how do you get to it if it doesn’t actually intersect with 49? Go down to Mechanic Road, and turn onto that. Mechanic Road dead ends into Lassiter, and if you turn right at the dead end you’re headed in the right direction. Look for the sign for the Thornburg Trail Head on the right hand side of the road. The parking area is on the left across from it.

Time for hike: The total distance is about 10 miles of wonderful up and down terrain, which I completed in about 3.5 hrs. This is a loop hike. 

Best season to do this hike: Winter, but not the hunting season (see Beware section). The trails and camping are supposed to be EXTREMELY popular in the warmer seasons, so if you want to enjoy nature and not spend all day answering questions about pack goats January and February are your friends.

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Camping is very popular in the park!

Trails to Take

Starting off in the parking lot you want to walk towards the green house. This house looks at first glance like it might be in good enough shape to be occupied, but it’s actually a historical site. There’s some fun signs around the house to read and some old buildings to explore that are worth checking out. If you grew up in the south it will feel a lot like visiting your great grandparent’s place. Though, my grandparents weren’t posh enough to have their well built into the back porch of the house like this one does!

The trail heads off down a large, old gravel road behind the house that is very obvious. First a basic warning – there are tons of side trails off this main road that you are on. Avoid them. They go out to wildlife management plots or dead end into the trees. Stick to the biggest and most obviously well trod trail, (though this can be confusing since they pull a farm implement called a disk that digs up dirt down the trail periodically to disk the wildlife plots. This makes a side trail look like lots of people have been trampling through the mud even though no one goes that way). Look out for extremely worn brown metal National Forest Service trail markers to help guide you in the right direction too.

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Bakri on the ‘it might not be here after the next flood’ bridge. Unleash your goat when trying to cross this one or you both might end up in the creek!

This gravel road leads down to a deep creek which has signs of obvious severe flood damage around it, (see Beware section). You can ford the creek, but if a more recent flood hasn’t finished it off, there’s a bridge you can go over on. After the bridge the trail continues along overgrown bottom land, then comes to a major intersection. You want the trail on the left! Take this and go up hill towards a big open wildlife field.

The trail will skirt the wildlife field, then go off through the woods. You will eventually reach a spot with confusing signs, just before the trail heads uphill again and past some rocks on the right. If you look, the signs have penciled in mileage around the original writing where prior hikers have tried to stop future hikers from being as stupid as they were. All these signs are telling you is that you have a long ways to go before you reach Robbins Branch Trail/Thornburg Trail intersection. Nothing else. They look like they are trying to indicate a trail crossing, but they are not! In fact, don’t even read the damn things and just continue along the trail. It’s probably less confusing that way. While you continue on your walk, keep an eye out for “trails” that seem to cross or come up along side the trail you are on. These are the remnants of old roads that once ran through the forest, back when travel was by horse and wagon. There are also old road beds visible when you hike Hannah’s Creek Trail later in the loop.

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The real Robbins Branch/Thornburg intersection sign, with Bakri standing on Robbins Branch Trail

 

You will eventually reach the real Robbins Branch Trail/Thornburg Trail intersection. To go around the loop like I went, go left here and down the hill instead of straight ahead. Almost immediately you will pass 2 stone walls next to the trail on your left, (this way you know you’re headed the right way!).

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One of the stone walls
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Bingham Plantation sign

The trail goes out through the woods, eventually meeting up with Birkhead Mountain Trail. Not long after you turn onto that trail you’ll pass a major campsite with a concreted fire back and a yellow blaze trail that heads down to the water access point for this campsite. This trail continues up and down through the hills, crossing some nice little creeks and club moss strewn forest.

Eventually you will pass a small metal sign for the Bingham plantation site, which was once the heart of the Birkhead lands. I couldn’t find much at this site except for some earth hummocks. But it’s interesting nonetheless. The trail heads downhill and goes BEHIND this sign, ignore the well trod trail to the left, which appears to lead nowhere.

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Chimney remnants

The trail continues to the intersection with Hannah’s Creek Trail. Turn onto this, and as you drop in elevation along the edge of the hillside, look to your right to spot the old road bed that runs down and then leaves the main trail. As you go along, look for a camping area to your left with a big pile of suspicious looking stones in front of it. These are the remains of a once standing chimney, and the camp site has incorporated some of the fallen stone into a fire ring.

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Goat and human rock climbing areas abound on this loop

After you pass the pile of rocks you’ll go through an area with boulders, many of which are quite nice for a climb. Beware, however, that you are approaching the Robbins Branch Trailhead, and there may be many other people out enjoying a bit of rock hopping. Next up is the intersection with Robbins Branch Trail, which will take you back to Thornburg. This trail is the most heavily trafficked in the park from what I can tell, so expect to meet your largest numbers of people here. When you make it back to the Robbins Branch Trail/Thornburg Trail intersection, go back on Thornburg and return to your truck/car/suv/goat powered helicopter.

BE WARNED!

  1. Hunting season is NOT the time to visit this place! There are significant signs of hunter presence, including a permanent tree stand I found that was set up to fire ACROSS the trail! Don’t go with a goat during deer season!
  2. I was stalked by something on the Birkhead Mountain Trail for a ways. Could have been deer because neither the goat nor I got a good look at it, but it could also have been coyotes. Take a heavy hiking pole for any eventualities and consider bringing a human friend to beef up security for your hamburger on four legs.
  3. Signage is sparse, and trail markers (which are white blazes on trees) are worn. Be careful when navigating! While getting around the park is very doable, the number of trees blocking the original trail and the presence of what looks like historical road beds in certain parts of the park can make the trail unclear in places. Note in the trail review that there are also side trails for game management or possible external access (?) that can be confusing at times.
  4. Access from the Thornburg Trail Head may not be doable in flood conditions because you have to cross a sizeable creek with signs of serious flood damage on either side.
  5. There is an abundance of tasty holly on this hike – make sure your goat doesn’t gorge itself silly and become too fat to get back to the truck!
  6. The parking area at Thornburg and Tot Hill Trail Heads (these are the only 2 I’ve visited) are small and FENCED. This means there isn’t a ton of parking. Plan accordingly since overnight campers and day hikers all use these areas.
  7. Be careful on the first part of the trail to stay on the main trail and not get lost on the side trails that go out into the wildlife management plots. Look for very worn brown metal forest service trail markers to help you choose the right way.

In sum: 

Keep rollin’, rollin’, rollin’,
Though the streams are swollen,
Keep them goaties rollin’, rawhide.
Through rain and wind and weather,
Hell bent for leather,
Wishin’ my dude was by my side.
All the things I’m missin’,
Good vittles, love, and kissin’,
Are waiting at the end of my hike.

Saddle Up for Saddleback Trail at South Mountains State Park

 

Every girl dreams of owning a horse when they are a kid. Otherwise companies would not make things like ‘My Little Pony’, rocking horses, or Breyers figurines because there wouldn’t be any money in it. However, when little girls grow up to be adults they realize that horses require big trailers and big trucks and big wide open spaces. So they settle for hiking horse trails with the much angrier and grumpier mini-equivalent  of the horse: a goat.

Location: Saddleback, Upper Falls, and Raven Rock Trails of South Mountain State Park

Is it goat approved? Yep. This park has phenomenal horse camping and riding facilities, and perhaps because they have such a wonderfully inclusive arrangement (with bikers, hikers, and horses sharing the trails) they were open to me bringing a pack goat. Provided of course, that I did a special activity permit. Luckily the day 2 weeks after the approval of the permit was a really great day to go out for a hike!

How you get there: Easy. Google it. You’ll be winding through a lot of back roads, so take a GPS or good written directions. You want to park in the horse trailer  parking, which is the first massive parking area to your left as you enter, just past the park office.

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View of parking area from road to horse campground

Time for hike: The distance is approximately 4 miles one way, so 8 miles total.This is an out and back hike.

Best season to do this hike: Winter. I went on a day that started in the 20’s and still met plenty of people and two horseback riders. I weep for the level of traffic you would meet during the summer!

Trails to Take

Starting off at the parking area for horse trailers you want to get on Saddleback Trail, (note in “Beware” section that this trail is closed during wet conditions). You can either get on Saddleback from inside the horse campground, (a small connector trail runs out from around campsites 7-4, but this is only usable when horse campers are not present), OR you can get on from the trailhead in the parking lot, which is near the trail kiosk. Either way, Saddleback is a continuous moderate climb the whole way, (but this means it’s also a nice descent when you come back tired).

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Split rails on trail

The trail goes out through the woods, crosses the river, and then climbs up the hill, with split rail fencing on the side of the trail in places. Just follow this trail for a little over 3 miles, till it intersects with Raven Rock Trail. An interesting thing about the trail signs in this park is they don’t really tell you what trail you are getting on…rather they tell you what direction you need to go to reach another trail or point of interest.

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Note the gate to close Saddleback in wet weather, and the highly confusing park signs

 

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Anyway, you want to go right at this intersection, and just as you do you will see a great overlook of the mountains that is an unexpected treat and photo magnet. After this overlook the trail will begin to descend VERY steeply. Once you’ve escaped the tendency to take about a billion photos here, continue down to the next trail intersection, where you want to turn left and go down hill. This is a mountain biking trail, so be wary. At the bottom of this trail is another water crossing.

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Bakri at the hitching post while I eat lunch in peace!

On the other side of the water crossing is a huge backcountry campsite. The trail continues through here, and up to the turn to go to the waterfall where there is a nice picnic area with a spot to tie up horses (or goats if no horses are present). If you are hiking with some buddies, consider stopping here for lunch, tying the goat up, and while your buddies eat/watch goat, hike the 0.5 mile strenuous trail down to the waterfall. I have it on my husband’s authority that the waterfall area is well worth your time, (if you have any to spare). However, the trail to the waterfall is way too tight to take a goat with you.

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High Shoals Waterfall with ice, courtesy of the husband

After lunch, head back the way you came, though getting up that hill again might be a trial with a full stomach!

South Mountains

BE WARNED!

  1. The entirety of Saddleback Trail is closed when it is raining or the ground is wet. Plan accordingly, and potentially call the park before visiting to ensure it is open.
  2. This park requires a special activity permit to visit with goats, but they are pretty cool about it. Park manager prefers that goats stay on equestrian trails, since most of the hiking only trails are very heavy trafficked (even in really cold weather). While it does curtail some of the fun, trust me, I sent a non-goat companion down one of these hiking only trails – they are not suitable for goat kind! They are very tight and very peopled.
  3. You will meet horses on Saddleback Trail. To avoid being trampled I’ve found that getting off the trail by several feet and holding still allows the horses the best chance to come to terms with the mini horse with the horns without freaking.
  4. The second half of the trail, as you approach the turn around, is very steep and very down hill. A goat that is not accustomed to doing 8 miles will struggle to reascend this area on the way back, so if you have a barn potato in tow, expect to have to stop and wait on them on this stretch. Also, a lot of this stretch is mountain biking trail, so keep an eye out.
  5. Water crossings are moderately shallow and may become deep at flood stage. Remember most of these trails are assuming you are on horseback, not on foot!
  6. Unleash the goat on water crossings if you don’t want a goat to accidentally plunge you into the river.

 

In sum: Lunch with a goat is a moral quandary. If I give the goat part of my snack bar…it will want more of my snack bar. And we all know what happens when you give a mouse a cookie…

Clouds and Cliffs at Pilot Mountain State Park

I once read that there is an old superstition that if the ravens ever leave the Tower of London then Britain is doomed to be shortly wiped off the face of the map. Britons, being apparently as practical as Carolinians when it comes to this sort of thing decided to hedge their bets by clipping the wings of the ravens at the tower so they could not fly away.

Pilot Mountain State Park is best known for the towering spire of rock that is its namesake. This rock was historically a major landmark, being used as a navigational aid by Native Americans and later by local settlers. It is also home to a population of ravens, (which is a bit unusual for the area). However, given that no soothsayer has climbed Jomeokee Trail and proclaimed immenent destruction based on augeries of raven flight these intelligent little fluff balls of black feathers are still free to come and go as they please. At least until one of them poops on your head.

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Location: Pilot Mountain State Park and the Yadkin River Section of Pilot Mountain State Park near Winston Salem, NC.

Is it goat approved? Probably not, but I literally unloaded my goat right in front of the park ranger and they said nothing…so probably not but no one cares on a cold Saturday morning? However, you’ll have to pick up after the goat in the parking lot, and this destination is very popular with families and family camping trips so there is a lot of non-goat savvy traffic. Be especially careful about Jomeokee Trail and arrive early! The park opens at 8:00, I was the first person to park at the summit at 8:45 in 50F with misting rain, but by 10:00 people and kids were really getting on Jomeokee and a whole pack train of people where loading out down at the main park office.

How you get there: Take Hwy 52 out of Winston Salem and watch for the signs to Pilot Mountain. To get to the Yadkin River Section plan for some extra time. You can access this area from Hwy 52 as well, but you’ll have to wind out into the country after getting off Hwy 52. Follow the signs for Home Creek Living Historical Farm as this is on the same road just before the turn for Yadkin River, (there are tiny “Yadkin River” signs stuck on the top of the road signs that are easy to miss).

Parking at Yadkin River can be done off the paved road, (see maps below), or you can drive into the park and cross some creeks to get to other parking areas closer to the river. High ground clearance is recommended as these are rough car fords across the creek and the creek is prone to flooding during heavy rain, (and stranding people’s cars!).

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The sign and old building at the turn to access Yadkin River. If you want to park on the edge of the paved road that parking area should be just beyond this sign.

Time for hike: The distance is approximately miles 4.4 miles including the Yadkin River Section (about 2 miles) and the Pilot Mountain Section (about 2.4 miles).Pilot Mountain is a loop hike over strenuous terrain. Yadkin River is an easy out and back hike. Further mileage for those who really want to hike and not spend all day playing with their camera like I did in the fog can be easily added at both destinations.

Best season to do this hike: WINTER. WINTER. WINTER. Pick a misty, miserably cold day. Don’t pick a downpour or the Yadkin River Section won’t be accessible and the rocks at Pilot Mountain proper will be really slick! However, the water keeps the climbers away and decreases the traffic at this tremendously popular destination. Unfortunately, if you go in rough weather the Pilot Mountain rock spire may not be visible, and the views of the surrounding countryside, which extend out to the Blue Ridge Mountains themselves may be obscured. However, there’s still lots to see and visit even then.

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Trails to Take

Pilot Mountain Summit

To minimize the number of fellow hikers start off at Pilot Mountain State Park. Take the road all the way to the summit. While it would be fun to hike to the summit because of the time that requires and how many people would be at the summit when you finally get there, just bite the lame yuppie bullet and drive up. The drive is quite enjoyable, with twists, turns, and minimal guard rails.

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Fence to Ledge Springs

At the summit, you want to go down Ledge Springs Trail FIRST and then come back on Jomeokee Trail. Normally it would make sense to talk the highest traffic trail (Jomeokee) first, but due to the big, boring climb back up on Ledge Springs its actually still more fun to leave the busiest trail for last.

To get on Ledge Springs, walk across the parking lot to the cliff side, (away from the restrooms), which is mostly fenced off. Follow the wooden fence downhill through the picnic area and you will eventually leave the picnic area and get on the obvious Ledge Springs Trail, which wanders down to the bottom of the cliffs.

Ledge Springs eventually intersects with Grindstone, turn left to stay on Ledge Springs. The next half mile or so is stone steps and dirt trail running along the base of probably the best cliffs you can get east of the Appalachians. Mountain laurel and other plants more typical of the mountains are in abundance in areas that are not actively being climbed.

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Not long after leaving the climbing area, (there will be a sign), the trail goes down a section of stairs and intersects with the *unmarked* Jomoekee Trail. I can only assume that the traffic is usually so heavy on these trails that they felt it unnecessary to make very clear signage about what trails are what, (because there would always be someone around to ask).

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Ledge Springs/Jomeokee intersection

Turn right onto Jomoekee to go out to the rock spire that is the central show piece of the park. While the top of the spire is not accessible, (and climbing it is a misdemeanor), the trail makes a circle around the bottom. Accordingly, when the trail splits you can go which ever way you want – you’ll still end back up where you started.

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The bench at the base of the rock spire
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Supposedly there are ravens living in this area. Bakri seemed worried.

There are numerous benches and picturesque cliff sides to view, and I ran into a few deer grazing at the base of the cliffs as well. However, it is important not to linger too long on this trail for two reasons. One, the loop is popular with walkers/hikers/kids with an increase in numbers over time, and two, there is a tight stair going back up to the parking lot. Once the circuit of the spire is complete, you can continue back on Jomeokee Trail past where you originally got on it and the trail will return you to the parking lot. However, if you are late in heading back and the traffic is heavy the tight stone stair back up to the parking lot may be too full of people for a goat and hiker to use…which sticks you with returning via Spring Ledge Trail and taking that long boring climb back up to the top instead.

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The top wasn’t even visible in the fog!

 

Yadkin River Section Canal Remnants

I parked inside the park just after the 2nd creek crossing where there is a large field for group camping, a pit toilet, a trail kiosk, and a rough parking area. Parking is also available at the end of the road after the 3rd creek crossing and off the paved road just after the turn off to go into the park.

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Parking area and 3rd car ford

From my parking location, I headed down the road towards the river, crossing the 3rd creek crossing. For some reason as you top the hill they have “no horses” signs posted, and you want to stay on the gravel road to continue, (since there are no “no goat” signs posted). The road eventually ends at a loop parking area with another trail kiosk which sports a much better map of the area than that provided online.

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The entrance to the Bean Shoals Canal Trail is just behind the kiosk, (and easy to miss). Take this trail down hill to the railroad tracks. These tracks are active! So look both ways before crossing!

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Canal wall and Yakin River. Islands are in the background.

The trail joins a trail running along the river after crossing the railroad tracks. You can, in low water situations, wade this river, cross over the mid-stream island, and go hike the trails on the opposite bank from this point. If you aren’t into getting wet, go right and follow the trail as it winds along the bank. This will take you past the ruins of the canal wall. The rail line seems to have been built inside what would have been the canal’s actual waterway, (settling of the rail line at the far end of the canal demonstrates the issues with doing this!).

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Walking the rail line

The shoals the canal was meant to help bypass are visible in the river to your left, as are numerous islands. At the end of the canal walls the trail just sort of fades out, and you can turn around and head back the way you came or walk back on the railroad tracks, (again – this is an active rail line!). Then head back to the car or take another trail to extend the hike.

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Yadkin River Section Kiosk Map
Pilot Mountain State Park
Pilot Mountain’s Main Park Map

 

 

BE WARNED!

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Yadkin River Warning Sign
  1. Ice was present on the trails around Pilot Mountain even at 50F, so if you plan to hike in the true dead of winter when there’s lots of that frozen stuff on the ground and hanging off the rocks be careful that you don’t fall to your death or get impaled by a 6 foot long icicle.
  2. The Ledge Spring Trail is where all the cliffs that people can climb on are located. Watch for falling debris, climbers lounging on/near the trail, and dogs belonging to climbers that may be tied to trees. They aren’t supposed to have dogs tied up to trees, but what park rangers can do about it besides shaking their fists up at their aerial enemy half way up the rock wall I don’t know. If it is raining or the cliffs are really wet and cold there don’t seem to be any climbers around.
  3. Jomeokee Trail is the primary trail that goes out and circles the big rock spire that makes up the focal point of Pilot Mountain State Park. This is THE trail for families, small children, dogs, and also the super serious peak climbing monsters with hiking poles and packs to all come together on. Clear this trail before 10:00 AM if at all possible.
  4. If you are bringing along people or goats who are not from the various parts of the world where active railroad tracks are also the main highways of adolescence to reach the swimming hole, main street, or Walmart, you might want to remind them that trains can’t break quickly and to look both ways before crossing the tracks.
  5. The top of Pilot Mountain, (that is, the top of the stone spire), is not accessible so as to protect the rare plant communities that live up there. I too was disappointed about this, but conservation should come first!
  6. The road to the summit is twisty enough and tight enough to exceed even the expectations of those veterans who have conquered the Blue Ridge Parkway, the climb to Caesar’s Head, and the millions of gravel roads snaking through Pisgah. It will add time to your commute to the trail head, and if there’s a lot of black ice and your tires are bald you might not get up the road.
  7. The Yadkin River Section has parking off S.R. 2072 (that is “State Road 2072” for those not familiar with North Carolina’s unique nomenclature). If you want to park inside the park though, like I did on this trip, remember that you have to cross 2 car fords through the creek to reach the first parking area and 3 fords to reach the second and third parking areas. Based on the marks on the creek bank that sign really isn’t joking about getting your car stuck because the creek is too high to cross. Bring vehicles with ground clearance and leave BEFORE the heavy rain starts.
  8. Unfortunately, if you go in rough weather the Pilot Mountain rock spire may not be visible, and the views of the surrounding countryside, which extend out to the Blue Ridge Mountains and downtown Winston Salem’s skyscrapers may be obscured. Fortunately there is still plenty to see even if these vistas aren’t visible.
  9. You will be stuck picking up after the goat in the parking lot areas of Pilot Mountain proper.
  10. The park opens at 8 AM (Pilot Mountain) and 8:30 AM (Yadkin River). Make sure you get there early and you will have the trails to yourself!
  11. Climbing the main rock spire at Pilot Mountain is a misdemeanor.
  12. At flood stage the Bean Shoals Canal Trail will be underwater as it runs along the bank.

In sum: If a tree falls in the forest does it make a sound? If the fog is so thick you can’t see them…are there still actually ravens living in the cliffs here?

Urban Goat on the Go: A Wonderland of Art on the Raleigh Greenway

Even fancied tilting at a windmill like Don Quixote or wanted to be Lord of Some Giant Earthen Rings? Let your imagination run wild by exploring North Carolina’s Art Museum and adjacent cultural properties! Built on land that first held a juvenile detention center and then became a cow pasture for the nearby vet school, the Art Museum has grown over the years to include not just the main buildings, but also numerous outdoor art works worth visiting that you don’t need to fall down a rabbit  hole or speak to a drug addled caterpillar to enjoy.

Beyond the Art Museum is Meredith College, which includes student art works near the greenway trail, but also hosts a unique tunnel which is repainted to a new theme each year by the current graduating class. This year’s theme was the unusually nerdy choice of blending Alice in Wonderland, the circus, Charlie in the Chocolate Factory, and what I’m pretty sure was Disney’s Maleficent all onto two white walls and half a dozen poles. It is pretty surreal.

Location: Raleigh greenway trail system, including Reedy Creek Trail and House Creek Trail, starting at the North Carolina Art Museum

Is it goat approved? Only if the goat is on leash, you can pick up after it, and the goat is great with people, strollers, and bikes. I find this trip to be great for bomb proofing kid goats and a unique change from hiking in the woods, but it is not a low stress easy walk. Though those used to the overly inquisitive nature of people living in the Northeast will enjoy the significantly lower attention the goat attracts in North Carolina, where people are more into horses. As a plus, museum guards and docents seem to be cool with even visiting the sculptures near the main buildings with a goat in tow.

How you get there: Google.Then park in the large parking lot off Blue Ridge Road where the ugly grey building with the “we hoped it would make it less ugly but actually just draws attention to it” trellis in front of it is.

Time for hike:  4.8 miles out and back, but add another mile on for wandering around the ex-pasture that they have set up as a sculpture garden. This is an out and back hike. 

Best season to do this hike: WINTER. Gets hot in the summer and full of people when the weather is nice.

Trails to Take

*There are no pictures with goats in them for this hike because it is extremely difficult to stand still long enough to get a picture with a goat in it without being talked to death by other visitors or mobbed by kids.*

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Be Lord of the Earthen Rings

From the parking lot you want to go down hill on the paved trail between the windmill and the art museum’s pond. The trail comes up to the big earthen rings and splits. Go right, down the hill, until a small trail comes off to your left near a pillar made of rocks, (there is no understanding art, just accept that it is a weird pillar). Off this trail is another small trail to your right into the woods.

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What happens when artists build windmills
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House with pinhole camera

This trail goes into the woods, across a creek, then up to a small building that is actually a cool pinhole camera. The camera effect only works when the sun is very bright, and you have to close the door the whole way so it is really dark, then count to 20 for your eyes to adjust so you can see the effect. This building is small, so if you are hiking by yourself you won’t be able to fit 1 human and a goat inside of it comfortably…especially if other people want to go in at the same time!

Past this is another bridge over a dry wash, and then the trail winds up and dead ends into the greenway. You want to go left away from the parking area. Trail winds down into a bottom land area with the notorious biker destroying bridges, (see “Be Warned” section), then up a hill. At the end of the climb is the bridge across the highway.

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Highway Bridge

Once across the bridge bear right and you’ll pass under Wade Avenue through a tunnel. This tunnel is closed at dark! On the opposite side is Meredith College. The side of this tunnel that vehicle traffic uses is painted each year by the graduating class at Meredith. They choose a different theme every year and  it’s interesting to drop by and see what the new theme is.

Beyond the tunnel the trail skirts the edge of Meredith’s campus, which has some interesting architecture reminiscent of a late 1800’s manufacturing building style in the center of campus. As you near the dorms there are also sometimes small art projects in the woods done by the students. Eventually the trail crosses the entrance to Meredith college, past the track, and dead ends at the stoplight. I usually turn around here, but if you really want to go crazy about it, cross the stoplight and go up hill past the gas station. This will take you across a bridge over a rail line, then take your next left at the stoplight just beyond the bridge and you’re on NC State’s campus, which also has trails/buildings/swarms of students to explore.

Art Museum 1

Art Museum 2

Be Warned!

  1. Be careful of any biker approaching you in spandex with a serious look on his face. While there are defined lanes for traffic in parts of the greenway, the predominate way that cyclists navigate the hordes of pedestrians is by zigging and zagging at the fastest speed possible through them. Which looks like a lot of fun to me, but maybe not to the goat you’re with.
  2. The bridges at the bottom of the first hill as you leave out of the art museum area are slick, and it is very likely that the aforementioned high speed cyclist, if unfamiliar with these bridges, will wreck. So estimate where the carnage is going to happen, and how far the bike and rider will slide, then pick a spot out of the way to watch the ensuing mess. I’ve seen about half a dozen people wreck, (which adds up to at least 1 person every time I walk the trail).
  3. No water sources for goats. There is a dog watering station, but the goats are curiously uninclined to drink at it. Perhaps they don’t want dog cooties.
  4. You are committing to collect goat poop when hiking in town, so bring several grocery bags and some hand sanitizer.
  5. The tunnel under Wade Avenue closes at dusk to all traffic. Don’t get stuck on the wrong side!

In Sum: Dealing with hordes of curious humans all the time by visiting this location often may lead to enlightenment and greater understanding of the human condition. Or it may just cause you to go insane and start headbutting everyone who speaks to you.

Get Washed Away on Falls Lake Trail (MST)

 

It’s been raining. For days. Weeks. Possibly for eternity. You’re entombed in the house, where you are spending a boring afterlife watching reruns on  Hulu and surfing the web to read about other people hiking because you appear to be living through the Biblical flood and won’t be going out any time soon unless its via kayak. The goats are all huddled under the shed, (where they’ve been standing in the same spot for days), passing around the same flake of hay in the brain-dead manner of zombies eating brains.

Its time. Get the rain gear. Get the goat. And get out of the house come hell or high water!

Location: The section of the Mountains to the Sea Trail (MST) that runs along the edge of Falls Lake starting at the Rolling View division of the Falls Lake Recreation Area.

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Anti-hunter goat coat for the one that really looks too much like a deer

Is it goat approved? Yes, but bring a goat that can do at least short stretches on leash since there are some close passes to private houses. In the rain I met absolutely no one hiking this section of the trail. However, I hear that during less wet conditions the trail is very popular, especially in warm weather, and the visibility of the path suggests this to be true. Plan accordingly.

How you get there: GOOGLE Falls Lake near Raleigh, NC. Look for the “Rolling View Marina” which is a marina within the Rolling View division of the Falls Lake Recreation Area. The trail head is on your left within the park boundaries, off Baptist Road, but before the park gate, (saving you the entrance fee during the summer). Basic parking lot/trail head/trail kiosk present.

Time for hike:  7.8 miles round trip, a perfect distance for keeping goats in shape. This is an out and back hike. 

Best season to do this hike: Foul weather will keep the other trail users down, but you might want to avoid this hike in the dead of winter as the wind can be incredibly nasty in places.

Trails to Take

The great part about this trail is that it sticks to the lake shore for almost all of its length. You can’t get lost. You can’t get turned around. The only way you’re going to lose it is if you decide to start swimming to the opposite shore.

Start off at the trail head/parking lot outside the park gates for the Rolling View division of the Falls Lake Recreational area. Trail heads off west out of the parking area, crosses a slick-when-wet wooden bridge, then wanders off through the woods.

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Army Corps of Engineers high water mark on a tree. This is the highest that the dam operators are entitled to flood the lake. Note that the MST runs at a lower elevation than most of these markers!

At the intersection, take the trail heading off to your left and down towards the lake. The trail will climb several ridges and drop into small drainage areas and coves, many of which are full of water at flood stage, necessitating a bit of wading, hopping around, and detouring to continue more or less on trail. Look out for a nice stand of sycamores, (big white trees), in one of these drainage areas.

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Great views when the fog isn’t in the way!

The trail continues along the lake, gaining more and more height. Across a dirt access road the forest will begin clearing out, with great views of the lake when the fog isn’t so thick, (and some powerful wind)! The trail crosses over what other users have referred to as a small dry waterfall, but which is a nice little running waterfall in a rainstorm!

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Top of the small waterfall

At the end of the open forest the trail descends almost to what is probably the lake shore when everything isn’t soggy and flooded. Then it climbs up a set of treacherously slippery steps at the base of a rustic house with a large statue of a woman on the lawn. There is a large dog who lives here, FYI. The trail passes a second house, then heads back into the woods.

There are other houses, a horse pasture, and lots of opportunities to navigate your way around flooded out trail, (though most of the trail was wisely built above the typical flood plain). Signage indicating close passes near houses or other private property is well placed, though oddly I had one of these signs crop up, and no less than two minutes later I found myself directed by the trail signage to walk along a private road that I had just been told to stay off of?

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The private road, which looks a lot less flooded in this picture than it did in person

The aforementioned road may be a deal breaker at high flood stage, as it was precariously positioned during my visit after only about a week of on and off rain in the area. A couple of weeks of steady rain would probably render it underwater and annoying to cross on foot with goats who aren’t really water fans to begin with. Beyond the road is more houses, a jaunt across what is basically someone’s yard, and then the houses disappear and you’re back walking through the woods.

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Power line cut
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Dee Dee says “You weren’t actually planning to cross on the bridge today, right? Please not today?”

The trail crosses a major power line cut, then dives back down to the lake, though during flood stage continuing on the trail will require some sticker bush and tick infested off roading to continue past the power line area. A few minutes after you leave the power lines you’ll reach the bridge, (coming up on your right). Quick logic test: if the trail is flooded, and the bridge you want to cross is in a flood plain, what are the odds you can cross (or even reach) said bridge? The answer is “not good”. But it is still pretty cool to go see just how deep this flood plain gets underwater. Apparently there should be a boardwalk out to the bridge…which was completely under the waves when I came by.

What the crossing should look like when the water is reasonable

Be Warned!

  1. During high water periods, (i.e. after a couple of days of rain or worse), sections of the trail will be underwater, requiring detours. Further, if you are planning on crossing the Little Lick Creek bridge, just forget about it. Seriously – that water was deep!
  2. There are several close passes to private houses, some of which have dogs and signs of small children.
  3. Four wheelers and kids riding them. Need I say more?
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Swimming to the crossing not recommended!

 

In Sum: Unfortunately, after much thought, the goat has decided it cannot help you portage the kayak down to the flood plain to reach the bridge. It is sorry, but it has better things to do. Like eat your hat.

 

Rock the Quarry at Dupont State Forest

While Dupont is better know for its waterfalls, rivers, and general H2O content, it is also home to the only rock quarry in the area that is both open for public exploration and not filled with water. The commercial Vulcan quarry down the road may churn out truck after truck of gravel and granite, but this unregarded little blasting site is generally only used by the park service and is thus a quiet field of boulders and man made cliffs on the weekend, all ripe for goat exploration.

Location: Dupont State Forest near Hendersonville, NC

Is it goat approved? Yep. They do llamas and they do horses, so they do goats.

How you get there: The parking area to start from is off Cascade Lake Road, at GPS coordinates 35.172825, -82.638965. This parking area is very popular with mountain bikers, who have in recent years grown astronomically in number. So come early to make sure you get a parking spot and be ready to interact with the off leash trail dogs that the bikers like to bring.

Time for hike:  4.4 miles, but if you cross at the Corn Mill Shoals river crossing, Corn Mill Shoals Trail can be taken to Bridal Veil Falls for a total of 7.5 miles round trip, (which I have done before on horseback and on foot – it’s an easy ride/hike). This is mostly an out and back hike with a minor loop.

Best season to do this hike: Any day that the river won’t be at flood stage. Dupont doesn’t get super hot in the summer or insanely cold in the winter, but as a state park known for its water features water crossings are common and may be impossible when the river’s up

Trails to Take

Start off in the parking lot. Walk down Cascade Lake Road headed south. This takes you to Wilkie Trail, (#83) (which sometimes isn’t well marked, but you will see where the trail goes off into the woods). This a mountain biker style trail, so it winds up through the woods in a series of curves.

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Quarry debris

This trail dead ends into Micajah Trail, where you want to turn right. Continue until Micajah Trail (#48) dead ends into the obviously named Rock Quarry Road (#62), then go left up hill. The trail will take you into the quarry itself.

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Bakri surveys a quarry wall near a spot you can free climb up

Rather than continue to follow the trail you can spend a more interesting time exploring the quarry. While much of the original debris on the quarry floor has been cleared away compared with how the quarry looked even 7 years ago, (or how it looked when I first saw it over a decade ago), there’s still plenty to play on. The walls of the quarry are climbable without ropes or climbing gear in several places, though it requires quite a bit of skill, (my ninja of a husband can make it to the top but I’m more of a ground based human).

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Longside Trail and Corn Mill Shoals intersection. The parking area where the trip started is on the other side of Cascade Lake Road beyond the metal gate

Anyway, once you’re done enjoying the quarry take Rock Quarry Road back out to Cascade Lake Road. Since the hike into the quarry is so short and let’s face it, if you drove all the way out to Dupont you probably want to make a day of it, cross the road and walk south a short ways to meet up with Twixt Trail (#80). This will take you down into the woods.

Continue in the direction you are heading and merge onto Longside Trail (#47), followed by turning left onto Corn Mill Shoals Trail (#19). Stay on Corn Mill Shoals. You will pass several trails heading off Corn Mill Shoals, and eventually reach the ford over the Little River.

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Corn Mill Shoal Trail Ford

After crossing the ford, just continue on Corn Mill Shoals. It will eventually take you out to Bridal Veil Falls, which is a waterfall near the horse barn and the center of the Dupont property. You can walk to the top of the falls on the rock face when the water is low enough to leave dry rock. There is a small falls at the top, though the main cascade down the rock face seems to the source of the fall’s name. Once done here, you can turn around and take Corn Mill Shoals all the way back to the parking area, (it dead ends into Cascade Lake Road right across from the parking lot).

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Trail Map

Be Warned!

  1. If its been raining the ford at the Little River will not be doable. Watched a mountain biker try to cross at flood stage once…and he fell down, lost his bike down the river, and had to go on a trek to find it. While a bike might be salvageable after drowning, a goat is not.
  2. Get to the parking area early. It is very small, and very popular with mountain bikers. Though, come to think of it, what isn’t popular with mountain bikers around Dupont?
  3. It is advisable to not plan on having lunch at the Bridal Veil Falls waterfall as it can be fairly popular, (though not nearly on the scale of popularity as the larger falls in the park).
  4. Stay out of the pools of water on the rock face at Bridal Veil Falls. There are sometimes thriving colonies of tadpoles and salamanders here that would prefer not to be trampled.
  5. Watch out for wet rock at the ford and at the falls. I once helped out during a waterfall tour at Bridal Veil Falls. An older guy and his wife were taking pictures of the falls nearby while I talked about the park history, etc. The man stepped back onto some wet rock, not running with water, but merely damp. He fell like he’d stepped on black ice and hit his head so hard he blacked out, ended up bleeding all over the rock, and had to have emergency services and me carrying him back to the parking area. He ended up being okay, but the moral of the story is trust no rock surface that is wet in appearance to not be slicker than goat boogers on ice. If in doubt, coat your boot soles with sand before trying to cross.
  6. Lots of mountain laurel and rhododendron on this hike. Make sure the goat keeps it out of his mouth so he doesn’t end the trip poisoned!
  7. Corn Mill Shoals can be a major thru fare for hikers and other trail users in the forest. However, it doesn’t get a ton of use if the ford is too under water to cross…so be suspicious if you meet no one during the whole trip down to the ford. It may be too high to go over.
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You can cross at the Corn Mill Shoals ford on horseback. Did it many times. However, it’s not for the faint of heart or that princess pony that only knows the show ring! On foot when the water is up it’s probably not for the faint of heart hiker either. Bring a rope if you’re worried that can span the twenty foot or so river.

In Sum: If Monty Python used coconuts to mimic the sound of horse hooves, what item of produce would he use to mimic the treading of goats?

Bamboo Cruising on the Eno River

If your Friday night included a marathon of terrible Chinese martial arts movies on Netflix, (or even some good ones like Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and House of Flying Daggers), you will undoubtedly feel compelled to find some type of mystical bamboo forest when you wake up Saturday morning.

Fortunately, if you are in North Carolina, you are in luck. While two of the native bamboo species are short scrubby switchcanes, the last, Arundinaria gigantea, (coming in at over 33 feet in height when mature), is truly a worthy backdrop for flying ninjas and hanbok wearing assassins. Even better, a reasonable forest of these majestic giants (or a similar species), can be found at Eno River State Park, where once you’re done cruising the bamboo you can also check out a few other interesting destinations.

[This excellent hike would not have been possible without the great maps at http://enotrails.com/ . Check it out!]

Location: Eno River State Park. The section adjacent to I-85.

Is it goat approved? If the goat is on leash, can cross water, and handle close passes by people, then yes, this park is goat agreeable. Park rangers regularly patrol the trails around the quarry, so keep the goat on leash in this area at all costs. The park, like other sections of the Eno River, doesn’t seem to get many visitors before 11:30 on Saturdays in cold weather.

How you get there: Exit 170 off 85 near Durham. After taking the exit, be prepared for some insanity – this intersection is very oddly set up. Watch for the Eno River State Park brown signs. Remember that you want to leave on the north side of the highway, and that you want to head north to the park, and you may need to go through several mini-intersections in the area right around the intersection with I-85 to get there. You may need to turn around a few times before you get going correctly. The parking area is right off Pleasant Green Road, before you cross Eno River if you are coming from I-85. There will be a small sign and gravel road on your left just before the bridge over the river.

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Great parking accommodations!

Time for hike:  Something like 6 miles round trip. This is a loop hike.

Best season to do this hike: WINTER, preferably the coldest most miserable day possible. Avoid this area during the summer as the quarry is a popular (if discouraged) swimming hole.

Trails to Take

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Power plant ruins, with the goat mobile with its new camper shell in the background

 

Start off in the parking lot. As a little prequel to the  main hike there’s a small trail leading towards one of those big metal power line poles. In this area are some ruins for the old power station that used to use the nearby pond for water which are fun to explore.

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Trail marker
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Water level marker

The main trail out is Laurel Ridge Trail, which is also a section of the MST. The MST is the “Mountains to the Sea Trail”, which exemplifies the typical Southern mentality of no nonsense naming. It is exactly what it says it is, a very long trail running from the mountains of North Carolina to the Outerbanks. Walk across the parking lot towards the entrance to the parking area. A brown sign will direct you to Laurel Ridge Trail on your right. The trail runs under the bridge. As the Eno River is prone to flooding during major weather events they have a handy water height measurement painted on the bridge that can be entertaining to watch during bad weather.

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Bridge, with bamboo forest visible as the dark spot in the back

The trail runs through open woods and eventually ascends up into the hill country around Eno River. There’s some nice twists and turns and a picturesque creek crossing. When you reach the wooden bridge, look to your right to see the awesome bamboo forest, which is perfectly visible in winter. If you go in the summer and can’t see the forest, follow the small stream up hill and that runs directly into the forest. Bamboo forests have extremely dense canopies and can be very dark inside. If the day is overcast consider bringing a flashlight to explore the forest and a camera with good flash! There is what appears to have been an old spring cover next to the creek I almost fell over too.

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Bakri in bamboo
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Spring cover

Once you’re done playing ninja in the forest, continue on the trail. It will eventually come up past a pile of grey boulders that are obvious from the quarry, and shortly afterwards you’ll see the quarry. According to Ye Olde Internet this quarry is something like 80 ft deep, but has extremely vertical sides. Therefore, unlike its more impressive brethren, this quarry just looks like a small pond…until you start really looking at the water and realize that it is literally a drop off from the shore line right down all 80 ft. Apparently there is enough debris and fallen stone at the bottom of this quarry that doing the old quarry cliff dive maneuver can be lethal. Of course, as any one who survived high school knows, people still jump in it anyway. They even built a special road for ambulances to get up to the quarry on the southwest side.

 

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Translation: “Don’t die in the quarry. We have to do a lot of paperwork. Sincerely, the Park Service”
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Quarry from where access road probably came in

Go left to go around the quarry on the river side. About half way around the trail will come off the edge of the quarry and cross a small river. There are excellent step stones here, but the water is swift and deep-ish if you fall off so bring the goat who is comfortable and won’t balk at the thought of getting a little wet.

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Bakri crossing at the quarry water crossing
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Water crossing near quarry. Translation- “Please Don’t Drink and Dive. It creates a lot of paperwork. Sincerely, the Park Service”

Quarry trail then continues along and up a hill. At the top of the hill you will see a large ditch come in on your right, swing around, and then the trail will walk into the ditch and climb back out. This “ditch” is the very old Fish Dam Road which was once the sole through fare for the area. The original road dates back to a Native American trading path. Where the trail crosses the road you will see to your right a smaller road come off the massive Fish Dam Road ditch. This is the access road to the Cabe Mill, amazingly still visible after so many years of abandonment. As you continue down the trail for much of the way you will see this access road running to your right. Eventually you will need to turn left onto Cabe Lands Trail.

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Fish Dam Road

The trail goes down hill to the river. At the point the trail turns and runs along the river look to your right to see the opening of the raceway that brought water from the river down to the Cabe Mill. This raceway is incredibly long, and as you walk you will see it continue, in places even still stone lined, until you reach the mill.

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Cabe Mill Ruins (off trail to get this close)

The mill itself is visible to your right up against the distant hillside as you cross the first of two wooden bridges. The first bridge crosses the outlet of the raceway, (after the water had left the mill it flowed from here back into the river), and the second crosses a creek.

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The trail then runs up hill, past the old Cabe Homestead, (which is no longer visible even as ruins), and then watch for Laurel Ridge Trail/MST to go off to your left. Take this trail, and keep a sharp lookout for an obvious foot path that is without a trail sign. This leads to the old Cabe cemetery.

After checking out the cemetery, continue past it down to the parking lot, get back on Cabe Lands Trail, and go back around Cabe Lands Trail to Quarry Trail, over the water crossing, and back to the quarry. If you came in near the river, check out the rest of the quarry edge by going to your left here. This takes you along a fun little trail between the edge of the quarry and the creek, passes a spring area, and even takes you around past the ambulance driveway. The original road into the quarry is visible in places.

Eventually you end back up where the MST/Laurel Ridge Trail came in and can take that back out to the car, with a short stop again to enjoy the bambooey awesomeness.

Map of this Eno River Trail

Be Warned!

  1. Theft from parked cars is common throughout the Eno River system. You are in Durham, so expect to hide your valuables and consider if pepper spray is right for you.
  2. Get off the trail by 11:30 at the latest (ideally 11:00) in the winter. If you do this when the weather is really cold you can walk pretty much the whole park and meet few if any other people.
  3. Eno River rises A LOT during major flood periods (such as hurricanes). Therefore, big storms, hurricanes, etc. may not be the ideal time to go on this hike by the river. The water crossing at the quarry may not be passable.
  4. Deer hunting is popular throughout North Carolina. If you are visiting from September – December consider coating your goat and yourself with orange if you plan to visit the off trail locations.
  5. Ruins are not safe! Duh! So don’t be like climbing and parkoring off them and stuff. Also be careful of old wells and cellars that may not be well covered in the vicinity of abandoned industrial sites. Lassie might save Timmy if he falls down a well, but a goat is more likely to give you up for dead and go find something to eat.
  6. Park rangers regularly patrol the trails around the quarry, so keep the goat on leash in this area at all costs.

In Sum: If you shake a bunch of bamboo really hard…does a ninja fall out?

 

Water Falls and Rock Falls at Dupont State Forest

Love waterfalls but feel the greatest triumph is not in visiting the biggest or the baddest, but in the search for those special hidden gems that you spend hours hiking to reach on some secluded river?

Dupont has several beautiful waterfalls that any camera toting rapids and rocks loving waterfall connoisseur can enjoy on the property. Their largest, (High Falls and Triple Falls), are easily reached from a massive, well maintained parking lot. Even their medium sized falls, (Bridal Veil and Hooker Falls), are easy hikes from the parking lot. However, there are two waterfalls that really are the hidden gems of Dupont. Wintergreen Falls is on the opposite side of the park from the big water waterfall spectaculars, and is often overlooked, (perhaps because the original trail was hiking only – this is no longer the case). Additionally, Grassy Creek Falls, on a small side trail, is also a less regarded little treasure.

So if you want Angel Falls or Niagara you’ll have to check elsewhere, but if you seek the quiet zen of sitting on a rock and eating lunch with the goats in front of an elegant plunge pool, this might be a hike for you.

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Location: North side of Dupont State Forest

Is it goat approved? Yes. So long as the goat is on leash they don’t seem to care. Llama packers are also occasional vagrants to this state park so pack goats are pretty tame in comparison.

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How you get there: The quietest parking lot to use to access this hike is Guion Farm Parking Area. Access it by getting on Sky Valley Road, which is on the north side of the park. This road will start off paved, then become gravel and shrink in size to just about 1.5 car widths, (this will become fun if you meet a car coming the opposite direction). Some of the bridges can be very tight as well for two cars passing at the same time, so if in doubt, do what the locals do – let the other car cross the bridge first, then you try it! Anyway, you’ll eventually see the turn off into a nice gravel lot surrounded by boulders. This is Guion Farms.

Time for hike: The distance is approximately 6.4 miles.This is mostly a loop hike.

Best season to do this hike: Any season. The Guion Farm’s parking lot is usually only mildly busy most times of the year, and the trails utilized are on the less popular side of the park. If hiking in winter be prepared for ice.

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Sometimes it’s fun to beat the goats at their own game!

Trails to Take

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The path out of parking

Going south out of the gravel parking lot is a small dirt trail, (this is the trail that leaves from the side of the parking lot with the bulletin board with trail information). This trail leads into the woods and becomes Tarkiln Branch Road (#80 on the map). Follow this trail, ignoring any small side trails you may see come in that are not marked with big wooden brown trail signs. It will be flat, open, and easy walking.

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Wintergreen Falls
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Info signs about forest management abound on the north side of Dupont

You will reach an intersection with Wintergreen Falls Trail (#91). Not surprisingly, this is the trail you want because it goes to Wintergreen Falls. Walk down this trail, and you’ll come up to a horse tie out, (a rope between two trees with metal rings in it). If you don’t want to take the goats up to the waterfall, you can tie them out here. If you do, continue past the rings, climb up the boulders, and you’ll be at the foot of Wintergreen Falls, with some fun boulders to climb on!

After you’ve had your fill of rock hopping, leave the falls and take the short trail running to your left along the river. This will take you to the intersection of the short connector your on with Sandy Trail (#70) and Grassy Creek Trail (#28). There will be a water crossing to your left at this intersection, but you don’t want to cross the river. Go straight ahead on Sandy Trail along the river until it intersects with Tarkiln Branch Road (#80) again, and go left to hike down the road to Thomas Cemetery Road (#81). You will pass Thomas Cemetery, which is pretty small, but has another horse tie out to put the goats on so you can go investigate the cemetery if you want.

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The Cemetery
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Using horse tie outs for goats

 

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Goats can cross water. They just want you to think they can’t!

Just past the cemetery is the intersection with Buck Forest Road (#8). Buck Forest is like the main throughfare for the north side of the forest, so expect to see lots of people on this one. Buck Forest will eventually appear to dead end into another gravel road when you are walking on it, BUT the map is set up so that this “other road” is actually Lake Imaging Road (#45) coming in on your right, and Buck Forest “turns” and goes over the bridge you’ll see to your left. These two “roads” both make up the “other road” you’ve just dead ended into. You want to turn right on the “other road” and this will technically be Lake Imaging Road. Almost immediately after doing this there will be a small trail to your left. This is #27, Grassy Creek Falls Trail. This leads down to the second waterfall!

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Grassy Creek Falls

The trail down to the second waterfall is tight and can be thick with people if you come during a popular time, so don’t leave the goats up at the horse tie out or they’ll get mugged, but wait till some people clear out before trying to go down. On non-popular days, (i.e. not in the summer or memorial day), however, there are few people to deal with here.

Once you’re done, get back on Buck Forest Road, and take it all the way back to the Guion Farms parking area!

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Dee Dee leads the way on Buck Forest through the white pines
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Trail Map

 

BE WARNED!

  1. Mountain bikers are the primary obstacle in the park, often traveling in  large strung out groups. Guion Farm’s parking lot is the major parking area for bikers so there will be a lot around on this hike.
  2. Unofficial park rangers, (well, technically safety volunteers), may be present in the more popular areas of the park near the covered bridge. If you need help you might be happy to see these guys. If you don’t, (which is most of the time), then you might want to walk the other direction or you’ll end up having your picture taken.
  3. Watch out for trail closures due to logging in the forest. They do a good job of keeping the website updated on trail closures.
  4. This probably is obvious – but goats only work on horse tie outs when horses are not on them.

 

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In sum: Enjoy a waterfall while attaining enlightenment through contemplating one of the most enduring koans to make it to the west:

“What is the sound of one goat hoof clapping?”

 

There’s Always One on the Eno River

There’s always one.

It’s that guy who, no matter where you are, is just too into it. Get accosted by a docent with too much time on their hands at the art museum? Gotten trapped in the bus with the heavy metal enthusiast who feels the need to share with the little old lady knitting across from him? There are sports fanatics, long distance running club members doing ultra marathons and the dreaded spelling bee whizzes.

Follow along on an epic Saturday out where one really bored goat keeps one really annoying  overly enthusiastic history buff busy checking out the ruins at Eno River State Park (Cox Mountain Area).

Come for the ruins. Stay for the history!

[This excellent hike would not have been possible without the great maps at http://enotrails.com/ . Check it out!]

Location: Eno River State Park. The northwest end of the string of parks along the Eno River, where Cox Mountain Trail is.

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Safety first when going off trail! Bakri models his anti-deer hunter orange duct tape.

Is it goat approved? Sort of, so long as the goat is on leash. There are horse trails in this section of the park, however, the park is popular with dog walkers, (at least one group of which was quite rude about sharing the trail with a goat). The park doesn’t get many visitors before 11:30 on Saturdays, and the park office doesn’t open till 9. So get there early to enjoy the part of this hike that is on trail in peace.

How you get there: Exit 170 off 85 near Durham. After taking the exit, be prepared for some insanity – this intersection is very oddly set up. Watch for the Eno River State Park brown signs. Remember that you want to leave on the north side of the highway, and that you want to head north to the park, and you may need to go through several mini-intersections in the area right around the intersection with I-85 to get there. You may need to turn around a few times before you get going correctly. The rest can be Googled or GPSed.

Time for hike:  Something like 6 miles round trip. This is a loop hike with one out and back that is off trail.  

Best season to do this hike: WINTER, preferably the coldest most miserable day possible. This keeps the number of dog walkers reasonable and lets you have the ruins to yourself.

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Half of the hike is a nice meander along the river.

Trails to Take

Start off in the second parking lot after you enter, (don’t turn in at the ranger station, wait for the sign saying “Buckquarter Creek Trail” and turn there). You’ll see a house up to your right, and then parking down around the corner. I’d park at the end of the lot if you are hauling goats as the house is a historical site frequented by people and occasionally there’s a guy there who talks about the history of the house. Buckquarter Creek Trail/canoe access goes down to the river from the parking lot.

At the ford (Few’s Ford) the trail continues along the river bank. It will eventually climb a set of stairs, and this can be an issue if you are experiencing heavy trail usage because the stairs cannot be traversed by goats and other people not associated with you at the same time. They are very tight. Instead, you can do the section of Buckquarter creek that goes along the ridge instead of the river bank, and this can be accessed near the ford as well.

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The bridge to Holden’s Mill Trail

Assuming the trail traffic is reasonable, continue along the river bank. Buckquarter Creek Trail will eventually turn in land and sort of follow a creek. At the bridge crossing the creek, go over the bridge and go left to go on Holden’s Mill Trail. This next section along the edge of the river will have some fun rocks to climb over and a rock beach. You’ll eventually reach a spur heading off away from the main loop. This goes out to the Holden Mill ruins.

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Original mill run for water entering the mill (the trail runs right down this)
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Mill ruins – specifically the housing that once held the water wheel
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Rock beaches are fun!

As you approach the mill ruins the trail will split again into 2 different trails (which is really just a loop around the ruins). To visit the ruins, take either of these two trails, and the trail will walk you right through the center of the ruins, including taking you along the old mill run, (where the Mill’s water once came in), and into the stone lined area where the water wheel once turned.

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The tobacco barn
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Inside the tobacco barn showing poles on which bunches of tobacco leaves were dried using the old method of curing

Once you’re done checking out the ruins, go back to where the loop comes together. Warning: You are about to go off trail and bushwhack. Legal = yes, but perfectly safe = no.  There is a deep and somewhat suspicious looking group of deep ditches on the uphill side. These are the remains of an old road that once ran to the mill. Following this old, and still amazingly visible road bed into the woods will lead you out to a really cool old tobacco barn and the remains of 2 houses, (for more on the great history of this home site, see “enotrails.com”).

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Duplex cabin home site of William W. Holden
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Chimney of a more modern house near tobacco barn

This is the home site (though not the original cabin) of William W. Holden, a governor of North Carolina and supporter of African American rights during the period when the Ku Klux Klan still had major sway in the Southeast. Basically, it’s worth bushwhacking and risking getting yourself embarrassingly lost to visit the homestead of a guy who represents what it sometimes feels like everyone has forgotten – just because you were born in the south and raised here does not mean you are automatically racist, even in the 1800s.

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Cole Cabin

Once you’ve had your fill of cool cabinyness, go back on Holden Mill’s main loop, and turn left to go down the trail away from the river. By taking the uphill sides of the Holden Mill Trail loop and Buckquarter Creek Trail loop you will miss most of the dog walkers who will begin to show up in earnest now that the sun is getting higher. You will also pass Cole Cabin, which is another amazingly well preserved single story cabin a short distance off the trail. The old road up to the cabin is also still plainly visible.

The rest of the hike takes you along a ridge above the river, eventually dumping you back out at Few’s Ford and the nearby parking area.

Map of this Eno River Trail

 

Be Warned!

  1. Theft from parked cars is common throughout the Eno River system. You are in Durham, so expect to hide your valuables and consider if pepper spray is right for you.
  2. Dog walkers are the primary obstacle, and like most dog walkers in the areas surrounding Duke, expect them to be rude and completely ignorant when it comes to livestock of any kind.
  3. Eno River rises A LOT during major flood periods (such as hurricanes). Therefore, big storms, hurricanes, etc. may not be the ideal time to go on this hike by the river. Some fords may not be crossable at high water times.
  4. Watch out for the tight stairs on Buckquarter Creek Trail.
  5. Deer hunting is popular throughout North Carolina. If you are visiting from September – December consider coating your goat and yourself with orange if you plan to visit the off trail cabins.
  6. Ruins are not safe! Duh! So don’t be like climbing and parkoring off them and stuff. Also be careful of old wells and cellars that may not be well covered in the vicinity of abandoned home sites. Lassie might save Timmy if he falls down a well, but a goat is more likely to give you up for dead and go find something to eat.

In Sum: The past is a fascinating place to visit, so until MIT gets around to building that time machine the next best bet is some first class ruins.