GEORGIA: Blood Mountain on the Appalachian Trail

The origin of the name Blood Mountain is lost to time. Some say it comes from a bloody battle between the Cherokee and Creek Indians in the nearby aptly named Slaughter Gap. Others that the reddish color of the plant life on the mountain inspired the name. But personally, I suspect it actually derives from the first poor soul who tried to climb this peak and all the blood, sweat, and tears left clawing their way up through the boulder fields to the spectacular views at the summit.

Is it goat approved? I wouldn’t take one here, even if there’s snow on the ground. The trail is extremely popular with day hikers and thru hikers. However, if the apocalypse comes, or a mass pandemic and the vast number of people migrating to Atlanta ceases…the goats would really love this one.

How you get there: Park at Byron Herbert Reece Access Trail. GPS 34.742001, -83.922440. The parking is limited, regulated, and very popular, but with a decent turnaround as day hikers go up and come back down. The turn is well marked for the parking area, and it’s just past Mountain Crossings, where the Appalachian Trail (AT) crosses the road.

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is 4.2 miles round trip out and back. The going is strenuous the first 2/3rds, climbing rock stairs and significant grades. The last third levels out and crosses a series of GORGEOUS rock faces with incredible views, culminating at the imposing TWO ROOM trail shelter. Seriously, this is an awesome hike.

Best season to do this hike: Fall, winter, and early spring are best. Summer, starting about mid-April, many AT thru hikers are coming through, and it will be busier and less fun.


Trails to Take

Start off in the parking lot, and the trail kiosk should be visible on the loop. Trail’s behind the kiosk.

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Lower Trail Fog

We were racing the autumn fog this morning, and if you too are looking for spectacular cloud photos at the crack of dawn, the first stage of the hike will climb up through fog. On the left a creek tumbles down, crossing the trail at one point.

The trail gains steepness as it ascends and dries, reaching a saddle where a confusing trail junction occurs. The access trail from Herbert Byron Reece Parking Lot is meeting the Appalachian Trail at this point. You want to go right and uphill to go to Blood Mountain. If you go left you’ll just descend to the road and Mountain Crossings Store.

The trail becomes rockier and rockier, and a series of depressing stone stairs ascends among large boulders jutting out from sassafras trees. The hemlocks at the parking area and near the creek peter out and are overtaken by stunted buckeyes and maples. The trail winds up a series of switch backs in a serious climb, then levels.

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The upper fog is gone…leaving a spectacular sea of clouds stretching to the horizon and Blood Mountain a lone rocky point rising out of the fog.

The trail goes along the edge of the mountain now, level and easy going, until you reach your first rock face and the first spectacular view of the morning. If you’ve made it before the burn off starts, but after the air has cleared (before 10 am at the latest!) beneath your rocky aerie lies an ocean of perfect cloud cover.

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The clouds are pretty awesome!

A series of rock faces lead up the face of the mountain, the crevasses and boulders becoming larger and more spectacular, until finally a well camouflaged rock shelter emerges from among the wind blown buckeyes and weather trimmed mountain laurel. This is Blood Mountain Shelter, the only two room shelter with a fireplace I have ever seen. It is frankly spectacular, well maintained, and fascinating in construction. Sadly the old fireplace has been blocked in as fires are no longer allowed on this section of the trail due to the threat of forest fire.

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The Blood Mountain two room chalet of a shelter!

Large rocks surrounding the shelter offer further perches and views, then it’s time to go back to the parking lot.

Trail Map

Map

 

BE WARNED

  1. Bear canisters are required in this part of the trail if you are camping. The recent explosion in the black bear population in North Georgia is probably the reason why.
  2. No fires. No seriously, they are terrified of fire up here – we survived some bad ones a few years ago that almost came down the mountains for the rest of Georgia. Pack the gas burner if you want smores instead.
  3. Parking is, as usual, busy and over worked. Plan accordingly.
  4. If you want fog, get up to the rocks by 9:30, or at the latest 10 in October. If you want the view, come on a sunny day around lunch.

 


Nearby Historical Stuff: The Indian Princess’s Grave

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The grave of Trahlyta

The giant pile of stones in the middle of the intersection of US 19 and US 60 in Stonepile Gap, GA is an interesting bit of history lodged literally in the middle of the modern world.

The pile of stones is over the grave of Trahlyta, a Cherokee princess whose tribe lived on Cedar Mountain nearby. The tribe had achieved immortality by drinking from magic springs shown to them by the Witch of Cedar Mountain. Okay, so this sounds a bit bizarre, but let me tell you for some reason there are A LOT of legends of immortal tribes/people in this neck of the woods. The Cherokee refer to them as the Nunnehei, (The People Who Live Anywhere), and consider them a race of Spirit People. Supposedly they had a large townhouse on Blood Mountain and other settlements in the surrounding area. Who knows, maybe the fount of eternal youth is in Georgia and not Florida…

Anyway, I digress. The legend goes that Trahlyta jilted a potential suitor, and that suitor decided to let his testosterone do the thinking. So he kidnapped her and dragged her away from the springs that were the source of her eternal youth. Predictably, she died. The suitor, while being an idiot in terms of logic, was apparently slightly better at geography, and took her remains back near her home place for burial as she requested.

Later travelers began the custom of throwing a stone as they passed onto the pile, and over time the  marker became so large even the highway department couldn’t pave over it.

 


In sum: 

When you take pictures where it looks like you’re above the cloud layer you can tell people you climbed to whatever elevation you want and they’ll believe you. By the way, Blood Mountain is stumpy even by Appalachian standards – it rises a mere 4,459 ft and is only the 6th tallest in Georgia.

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SOUTH CAROLINA: Ashmore Heritage Preserve and the Old Camp Spearhead

The Ashmores Heritage Preserve lies off Hwy 11 in South Carolina, wedged between Mountain Bridge Wilderness and the remains of Camp Spearhead. The trail system is pretty simple – there’s the yellow blaze Mountain Bridge Passage Trail, Wattacoo Lake Loop, and a slew of logging trails. Not sounding super exciting? Well, that depends on what you like. If you’re into abandoned structures, mountain lakes, and most importantly peace and blessed quiet then this is a good place to spend a Saturday morning in October.

Is it goat approved? I don’t have official permission, but I would say this is a okay place to hike with a goat as it is low traffic and trails are predominately gravel or hard packed earth. There are signs that horses have been ridden on the property…though signage would suggest this is sort of not allowed.

How you get there: Park at 35.081871, -82.583914. Parking is off the side of the road and well marked.

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is around 4 miles round trip with a section that is out and back. It’s pretty easy going, but it requires above a level 0 navigation skill if you are doing the logging trails. The blazed trails are relatively easy to follow.

Best season to do this hike: Year around.


Trails to Take

I decided to go play out on the logging trails instead of jumping straight on the Mountain Bridge Passage Trail (orange blaze). If you aren’t into navigation and getting lost, to get on the Mountain Bridge Passage Trail walk uphill from the parking lot on Persimmon Road. The first gate on your right leads up a gravel road. About twenty feet past the gate on the gravel road the orange blaze will drop off into the woods on your right. Turn down it to continue on the less *ahem* interesting route.

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Artificial bat cave on the property

For more fun (and also probably getting lost a lot) keep going straight. You’ll reach a creek with an iron bridge across it and a second wading spot, probable for ATVs or horses nearby. Cross the bridge and go right on what looks like a large, normal trail. This logging road is unblazed. It first comes up to an intersection with three exits. The far left exit is a logging road running straight up hill…this one isn’t much fun and doesn’t seem to go anywhere interesting. The center trail runs along a hill side…and also seems to go nowhere interesting. The trail on your right continues along parallel with the road. You want this one.

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The pond at dawn

At the next intersection, go right. At the third go right, and at the fourth and final intersection go right. Finally, you’ll come up on an intersection with an old road showing signs of pavement, and you can see the pond off on your left. The pond is located around GPS 35.085252, -82.578693. It’s pretty cool, and may have some interesting rare plants around it depending on season.

From the pond you can go back out, take a left and continue along the logging road that runs parallel with Persimmon Road. This will eventually dump you on Wattacoo Lake Trail. Turn right on this flat, easy trail. It will take you down along a creek side, past an old home site, (look for the non-native yucca plant and the old tire), and along what was probably the original access road for the home site. The Wattacoo Lake Trail will dump you off at the Mountain Bridge Passage Trail a few minutes after leaving the creek behind.

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Storage building ruins

Now, here’s the part where I started kicking myself – this junction between Mountain Bridge Passage Trail and Wattacoo Lake Trail? It’s back up at Persimmon Ridge Road, and literally behind an orange gate downhill from the parking area by maybe 200 ft. So, if you want to wander logging trails, go up hill to the gate I went in. If you’d rather just go to the pond and the abandoned camp…walk down hill from the parking area about 200 ft, and walk around the orange gate on your left. You’ll be right at the trail junction.

Anyway, from here take Mountain Bridge Passage Trail. It winds you out through the mountains in a pretty stereotypical hike, but the final descent leaves you somewhere more interesting than the average dead end. When you pass the sign for Ashmore Heritage Preserve you are now technically on private property as I understand it. From here on in you are on the now defunct Camp Spearhead property, also referred to as the “civitan camp”. Camp Spearhead originally functioned as a summer camp for disabled kids and adults, but when the camp closed it was purchased by Naturaland Trust in 2006. Naturaland Trust has kept it as a conservation area, and thus we get to go exploring!

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Council Circle

The Mountain Bridge Passage Trail descends from the mountains to meet a bridge, a river, and the first of two large ruins on the site. The buildings themselves have weathered very well, and can be explored with minimal risk. The first building appears to be a storage or cooking area. The camp road in front of the ruin runs out to Hwy 11 (and additional parking for trail access) on the right and further into the camp on the left.

The camp includes a couple of picnic tables, open fields, sidewalks, overlooks, bridges, and decorative plantings that have long since gone feral. There are a number of gravel roads which I did not fully explore as well. I didn’t find any cabins, but I would assume some type of camper housing was there originally. Many buildings have been demolished (or burned down) since the camp’s closing.

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Intact screened auditorium

There is a large screened auditorium in amazingly good shape given that this camp closed in the early 2000s and next to it a grove containing a council circle of sorts for campers.

Once you’re done exploring the ruins, it’s just a short hike back uphill to the car.

 

TRAIL MAP

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Black trails are logging trails, orange line is Mountain Bridge Passage Trail, and the purple is the Wattacoo Lake Trail. Parking is the blue star near Persimmon Ridge Road

BE WARNED

  1. This is not a level 0 navigation trip. Plan accordingly.
  2. There are signs of drunk people activity at the old camp. Maybe don’t plan to come after dark on Friday or Saturday nights unless you are bringing enough beer to share.
  3. There are bears. Duh.

 

IN SUM:

I say “Husband, I have found some cool abandoned summer camp buildings”

Husband says “Did you find any abandoned summer campers?”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In sum: 

Camp Spearhead used to be a summer camp for disabled kids. While the old camp is no longer, I hear they still do the camp down near Greenville. So don’t feel too bad enjoying the nice ruins!

GEORGIA: Yonah Mountain

Yonah Mountain is a popular small park encompassing a single stony rise near Dahlonega, GA. The mountain stands by itself, visible from both the Appalachian Trail and distantly from the area of Dawsonville, providing an incredible view from the cliffs surrounding  the summit. A good location for spotting Atlantans out for the weekend, and a great hike for dogs, enthusiastic kids, and less enthusiastic spouses, this basic but beautiful jaunt makes an awesome opening to this winter’s hiking season.

Is it goat approved? The trail is heavily used, but sparsely maintained or patrolled by the powers that be. I would not recommend a goat because of the traffic level, but it could probably be gotten away with here.

How you get there: Google “Yonah Mountain Parking Lot”. On the satellite image Yonah Mountain Road appears to travel up to the summit – but this road is gated and inaccessible. The actual parking lot is at 34°38’14.6″N 83°43’36.1″W off Chamber’s Road. Come early! The parking lot is large but heavily traffic. However, if 8 am isn’t going to work with your three year old, there is fairly steady turnover of cars and you can get a spot later in the day.

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Parking is extensive, but it is not really extensive enough. Come early to get reasonable parking locations.

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is 4.4 miles round trip out and back. Expect a nearly relentless uphill the whole way to the summit.

Best season to do this hike: Year around. Wildflowers bloom throughout the summer, and primitive camping is allowed even on the summit throughout the year. However, be aware that the Army trains at the park, and the trail is closed on training days.


Trails to Take

The trail starts on the left hand side of the parking lot, about even with the pit toilets, (yes, that is the source of the  strange smell you are going to be wondering about). It climbs first slowly through a lowland  forest of unremarkable hardwoods. A short bridge crosses an unremarkable creek. Then, the trail comes up parallel to a steep incline, which develops into a wooded cliff. Boulders pop up, growing larger and larger, finally culminating into a rock scramble at one point.

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Boulder scramble

Beyond the rock scrabble a field pops up out of the trees, leading to the first view of the hike, looking northwest. The trail continues on the far side of the field, growing steeper and showing signs of extensive erosion.

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Wildflowers found on the trail

The trail comes up to a gravel road, turns right onto the road, and continues up to the Army training area. There are more pit toilets here. The trail splits at this point – if you want to go to the summit stay on the gravel trail to your left. This trail continues up a steady pace and begins to cross small rock faces. The number of wildflowers increases. The trail crosses a large rock face. At the far side of the rock face is another trail split. The right hand trail goes to a spectacular view at a primitive campsite. The left hand trail passes a small spring and continues, again at a steady climb, all the way up to the summit, which is around a quarter mile away at this point.

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Trail side spring
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Side trail at the rock face view

The summit itself is a bit of a let down for most people. The views are nonexistent, though side trails will take you out to the notoriously dangerous cliff faces where better, if stupidly dangerous views, exist. The main object of the summit is a large clearing surrounded by picturesquely stunted oak trees that pretty much screams “camp here”. Yeah, you can camp here. In fact, I plan to do so in the future.

Anyway, turn around and go back downhill to the car when you’re ready to go onto the more challenging stuff the winter hiking season has to offer!

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Field at the summit of Mount Yonah

 

TRAIL MAP

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Trail Map (courtesy of HikeTheSouth.com – my photo did not come out)

 

BE WARNED

  1. Parking fills up fast in reasonable weather. Come early to get your pick of parking!
  2. The US Army trains on the mountain, (they go rock climbing or something). When they are there you can’t be. Call 706-864-3367 to check on what days they are in residence.
  3. Reminder that Yonah Mountain Road doesn’t actually get the public to Yonah Mountain. The real parking is off Chamber’s Road nearby.
  4. The cliffs of this mountain have claimed many lives, including those of experienced hikers and backpackers. The views are not really good enough to die for, so stay back!
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The US Army closes the park on training days.

 

In sum: 

Always go the fun way. Life is too short to be boring.

SOUTH CAROLINA: Lilies Among the Locks at Landsford Canal State Park

If you grew up in a place where gardening meant you ate,  you probably have a great grandmother with an extraordinary green thumb hanging off a limb somewhere in the family tree. Or possibly perched on a ladder next to it doing some judicious pruning and tent caterpillar burning while planning what she’s going to do with all those apples that didn’t fall to far from the tree.

Mine planted a lot of things, both pretty and productive, but the pride and joy, the one item my great grandfather’s snapper lawnmower had better never snap off, were the red spider lilies.  When I grew up and got into native plants I began to realize that the flowers my grandparents had cherished – azaleas, irises, and hydrangeas among others, were all foreign imports. Even those beloved red spider lilies sprouting on my tormented grandfather’s lawn are native to Japan were they decorate graves instead of sod.

But then I found out we have our own versions – the piedmont azalea, the wood hydrangea, native irises, and even an equivalent for those lovely, lacey red spider lilies. South Carolina has its own spider lily – the exceeding rare Shoals Spider Lily. The Shoals Spider Lily (hymenocallis coronaria) is an endangered flower that grows in a very dangerous place – right in the middle of flood prone rivers. Hydroelectric dams removed much of this historically abundant flower, (first noted in the 1700s by William Bartram – namesake of the Bartram Trail in Georgia), by covering the shoals on which it lives and regulating the rivers to prevent flooding. However, some populations still exist in SC, GA, AL, and NC, including right in the middle of the Catawba River at Landsford Canal State Park. So come and enjoy a rare site – a river in bloom!

Is it goat approved? Nope. Trails are very popular and the park rangers very vigilant.

How you get there: Google Landsford Canal State Park and go to the first entrance to park. Note there is a $5 per person charge to visit.

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is 3 miles total out and back.  

Best season to do this hike: Go when the lilies are in bloom, starting in late April into May (with the peak generally around Mother’s Day).


Trails to Take

The trail is exceedingly simple. Go in entrance 1, Park Drive. You will pass 2 ranger residences almost directly across from one another. Right after that on the left is an UNMARKED gravel drive that goes into the woods and looks pretty darn sketchy. This is actually the drive way to the gravel lot in front of the old Lock Keepers House, (which is now an unmanned and apparently shuttered museum). There is a plaque from the Daughters of the American Revolution nearby with more history about the canal system as well. You can drive up and park, admire the stonework, and drive back out and down to the actual parking loop for the trail head.

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Canal keepers house

 

The parking area is at a large picnic spot on the Catawba River. The trail head for the canal trail is on the edge of the river behind the rustic log cabin. The trail splits into a “nature trail” that runs along the river and a “canal trail” that more closely follows the original canal path and ruins. Personally, take the canal trail out and the nature trail back in. While most “nature trails” are not that interesting, the one here is – expect turtles, herons, and great river views for your return trip!

 

Anyway, follow the signs for the canal trail, which quickly begins to pass ruins that are open for climbing and exploring and not behind the velvet ropes of your standard outdoor museum. The diversion dam that once supplied the canal with water is still clearly visible, as is the guard lock, the bed of the original canal, and the tow path that accompanies it. The trail mostly follows the old tow path, which winds along the contour of the hill, taking you past the remains of a bridge that once crossed the canal, and a culvert for diverting a stream UNDER the canal surprisingly enough. The canal eventually comes up to a huge section of towering stone work – this was originally the location of a mill and large pool where barrages could stop to load and unload flour. Now the trail goes down the canal bed through these towering stone retaining walls, (there is very little evidence of the original mill left).

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Walls of the canal at the mill site
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Lifting Locks

 

The trail follows the canal bed, then climbs back up onto the tow path to take the outdoor history enthusiast to the final grand piece of this outdoor museum – the upper lifting locks and a stone bridge at the canal terminus. The locks themselves are cool, but even cooler is a sign indicating the Great Indian Warrior Trading Path. This ancient thoroughfare is part of a longer path that connected the Great Lakes to the southern US, eventually ending all the way down in Augusta, GA. With the arrival of settlers the route became known as the Great Philadelphia Wagon Road, and provided access to the historically important towns of Camden, Chester, Newberry, and Rock Hill. Today the path has all but vanished – except for this remarkably preserved stone bridge.

The trail terminates at the second parking lot, so turn around at the lifting locks and head back. This time on the nature trail! And don’t forget the lily overlook!

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Shoals Spider Lily at the overlook

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BE WARNED

  1. To reiterate what every single sign will already tell you – the Shoals Spider Lily will not grow outside of its very specific habitat. Trying to grown the bulbs elsewhere doesn’t work – so pilfering is pointless.
  2. It costs money ($5 per person) to visit the park…but the gate is self serve…
  3. There is a canoe trail for up close viewing of the lilies. The large trail kiosk between the parking lot and the log cabin gives further directions on how to use this trail – it winds among a number of river islands as I understand it.
  4. Realize that you will need a canoe to view the lilies up close – these flowers really do live in the middle of the river. For close up photos from afar you will need more than digital zoom on your cell phone if you are standing at the viewing platform.

In sum: 

The Shoals Spider Lily blooms once a year, in early spring. Each bloom opens at night and lasts only a single day. How fleeting an existence for something so beautiful.

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Shoals Spider Lily

GEORGIA: Hike in to the Hike Inn at Amicalola Falls

Every one who’s ever had a tree house understands the allure of living outside and up a tree. Len Foote Hike Inn is probably the closest you can get to a practical application of that. The structure stands about 12 ft off the ground on giant stilts, has hot water, HVAC, and food. Oh, and a pretty freaking spectacular view. Definitely worth a visit! This is also one of the few locations with protected, healthy Eastern Hemlocks on the property.

Is it goat approved? Nah. Too busy. Go and relax without a goat on this one.

How you get there: Park here: 34.567485, -84.244418 at the upper observation platform.

map

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is a little under 10 miles round trip out and back.  And yes, despite the confusion online, I have actually walked it, all the way, with a gps enabled mileage counter counting the distance. It’s 4.9 in and 4.9 out. Suck it forum pundits!

Best season to do this hike: Most seasons, but the Piedmont azaleas bloom in late April, the leaves start in late September, and the rhodendron are blooming at the start of May. Oh, and the road is closed in snowy/icy weather.


Trails to Take

Start off at the upper overlook parking lot. This is accessed by entering the park, driving up to the visitor’s center and the huge parking lot adjacent to it, then turning left and going up a very steep road.

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Amicalola Falls

At the top of the road make a sharp right into a small parking area. This is the upper falls overlook parking area. The top of the falls is directly ahead, just follow the creek.

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Stairs to the base of Amicalola Falls

The walk to the bottom of the falls, while long and strenuous, is well worth the look before you head out for the lodge. Keep an eye out for trilliums, foam flowers, and other blooming plant life as you climb down and back up the gazillion stairs.

The actual trail to the inn is on the other side of the creek that feeds Amicalola Falls. Cross over the falls on the wooden bridge, walk up shallow concrete stairs, and cross the next parking lot. The trail is across the parking lot left of where you enter the parking area.

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Hike Inn Overlook

The trail is blue and green blaze. Blue is the Appalachian Trail and green is the trail to the lodge. If you want to go to the official gateway/start of the Appalachian Trail you can take either blue or green blazes – it is about 8 miles both ways, and the blue and green blaze meet back up at the start.

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Check out the native wildflower garden at Hike Inn

The trail climbs out of the parking lot, crosses the road to the large drive up lodge for the park, and then re-enters the woods. Shortly thereafter the blue (Appalachian) and green (Hike Inn trail) blaze separate, with the green heading off to the right.

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The inn emerges from among a hemlock grove

The trail from here is easy to moderate, with occasional benches in good cellphone or viewing spots. It starts out flat going through the woods, then winds over dry ridge lines, climbing steadily upwards. The first noticeable down hill sends you down into a small saddle with a creek. There are several creek crossings, and as you enter this area the views will become better.

The creeks become more numerous, culminating in a boggy section with a wooden walk way over it, at which point you are about 3/4 of the way to the lodge. There are wooden posts with numbers  on them counting down along the trail…but they didn’t make much sense to me, so use at your own risk.

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Several buildings make up the compound

The trail approaches the lodge from a distance, passing a degraded wooden sign indicating some other small side trails in the vicinity. The lodge itself is surrounded by Eastern Hemlocks, making it an obvious blob of dark foliage in the predominately hardwood forest. The trail passes right by the great porch, whose adirondack chairs, swings, and informal pack storage make it the place to stop and wait out a downpour or cool off in the burning heat of summer. Guests and non-guests appear welcome both at the porch and at the overlook behind the lodge. Stop to check out the native plant garden, which has a variety of wildflowers on display on your way to the overlook!

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Relax to a killer view

The lodge itself has twenty odd rooms which are separated into a variety of buildings raised off the ground on stilts. They do hiker lunch boxes with a heads up, and of course, you can stay at the lodge with advanced notice and avoid that prolonged hike back out.

Once you’re done with the photo ops, go the 3 miles further to Springer Mountain and the start of the Appalachain Trail or turn around and trek the 4.9 mi back to the parking lot.

BE WARNED

  1. Parking fills up fast in reasonable weather. Come early to get your pick of parking!
  2. You MUST have advanced reservations for the Hike Inn if you want to stay (http://hike-inn.com) and the rooms are not cheap! Don’t plan on camping in the vicinity – any activities are by “permit only”.
  3. It is about 3 miles past the inn to the official start of the Appalachian Trail. So if you do that to you’re looking at 16 miles round trip in one day, and while the trail isn’t hard…that’s a hell of a lot of walking.
  4. There does not appear to be a front gate enforcing park hours, but be advised that regardless of what time you roll in, you need to pay an attendant or fill an envelope with $5 per car.
  5. The signs that say “Hike Inn” mean “Len Foote Hike Inn” even if they sound like “hike in” as in, to hike in to a campsite.

In sum: 

Lifetime Scavenger List item #24091 – Find the Piedmont Azalea in bloom completed.

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Native Piedmont Azalea

GEORGIA: Saving the Hemlocks at Angel Falls

The old adage you can’t just take, you have to give holds true for use of park service lands just like it does for warlords exploiting local villages. A warlord has to keep the peasants alive, and an avid hiker has to keep the forest alive.

Which is how I ended up treating hemlocks dying of wooly adelgid at Rabun Recreation Area Campground with Save Georgia’s Hemlocks (http://www.savegeorgiashemlocks.org/). Where I also found out about a nice, short waterfall hike at the campground that is worth a quick visit if you are at the rec area to begin with.

Is it goat approved? No. The Cradle of Forestry guy in the golf cart would probably run you over with righteous zeal for disturbing his domain (more about him in the “Beware” section).

How you get there: The trail head lies within the second loop of the campground, near site 53 (gps: 34.760750, -83.472252). The campground has a $5 day use fee for the trail and the beach. 

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is 1 mile out and back. Really only suitable as a side trip if you are there to hang out at the beach, see the ritzy lake houses, kayak or view some of the other sightseeing locations listed at the bottom of this review. Or if you are out treating hemlocks of course!

Best season to do this hike: Any time of the year.


Trails to Take

The trail starts off behind a kiosk at site 53 in campground loop 2 of Rabun Recreation Area Campground. It is pretty popular, and should be easy to spot. There is limited parking in the area, and more parking at the bathrooms in campground loop 1. You can use the access road at the back of the loop 1 area to take a 3 min walk into loop 2 to reach the trail head.

However you get there the trail follows the creek and crosses a small bridge. All the hemlocks in the campground and throughout this trail are treated and cared for by Save the Hemlocks – which is why most of them are still alive for us to enjoy!

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CCC camp spring box

The trail continues up, passing by a spring box built by the local CCC camp (Civilian Conservation Corps – a depression era “putting people back to work” program that built much of the park structures we use on the east coast). From there it continues to climb until at 0.5 miles you reach Panther Falls.

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Panther Falls

The trail switch backs, continues to climb, and begins to pass the hulks of hemlocks for whom help came to late. This area is hotter (no hemlocks for shade) and more erode (no hemlocks to hold the soil). At the very top is Angel Falls, a picturesque multi-cascade wedged among mountain laurel. The trail loops back on itself and then all you have to do is walk back down.

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Angel Falls
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Trail Map

OTHER PLACES YOU MUST CHECK OUT

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Nacoochee Dam

Nacoochee Dam Roadside Park (34.755796, -83.500819) – 1920s era dam with small power plant that impounds Lake Seed.

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Nacooche Indian Mound

Nacoochee Indian Mound (34.683690, -83.708985) – Indian mound that once held the Town House at the center of a large Cherokee town.

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Stovall Mill Covered Bridge

Stovall Mill Covered Bridge (34.711691, -83.657878) – covered bridge at a mostly eroded mill site. Has a great swimming hole popular with locals and picnic tables.

BE WARNED

  1. The parking is limited. You can park in loop 1 at the bath house if you need to, but be sure to display your day use permit.
  2. There is a $5 day use permit.
  3. In all honesty, the Cradle of Forestry guys who are in charge of this campground are a little…excessive. They will ticket your truck if you forget to display the permit. They will chase you in a golf cart. They will lay down the law with the all the bombastic force of someone who firmly believes they are cleaning up the riffraff. The only issue I have is they view “local people” and “riffraff” as synonyms. And by local, I mean all the people who lived here long before the Atlanta retirees came with their money, their lake houses, and their firm belief in their own superiority. Basically, if someone invites you to go to this campground and this hike, do it. But if you are a “local” or someone who lives like a “local” you may feel highly insulted dealing with these people and going to this place.
  4. Take time for the other places to visit! This area and the lake are beautiful and well worth spending a few days exploring. And the campground is well kept, if you can deal with the keepers.

In sum: 

If money moved mountains the whole world would be a mountain range.

NORTH CAROLINA: The Poetry of Goats at Carl Sandburg

Like most men, Carl Sandburg’s estate came to be home to goats because of his wife. He might have been a famous poet and biographer of Lincoln, but lets face it, we don’t go to Carl Sandburg’s house to read poetry or devolve into discussions of the Civil War, (I mean, technically Lincoln was on the other side from our perspective anyway).

We go for the goats. Mrs. Sandburg raised Saanen, Toggenburgs, and Nubians for showing and commercial production. Now the park service keeps a herd of about 15 around the place for photo ops and keeping the kids entertained while their parents go on hikes and house tours. So stop by and enjoy some goats that you don’t personally have to feed, raise, and keep in the fence!

As an aside – this is also a great place to go enjoy the rapidly disappearing Eastern Hemlock. These trees line the drive way and there are numerous gorgeous specimens around the property.

Is it goat approved? This isn’t a BYOG. They provide the goats.

How you get there: Park here 35.273330,-82.444616. Then walk in!

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is at best 2.5 miles if you walk everything.  More of a fun day out wandering around than a work out except for 0.5 mile up to Glassy Mountain which is very vertical. Budget some extra time for goat hugs though!

Best season to do this hike: Any time of the year. Remember you get baby goats in spring!


Trails to Take

The paved walkway down from the parking area immediately brings you up to the property’s largest (but by no means only) pond. You can hike around the pond on either side, or continue past the +20yr old concrete bathrooms, across the wooden bridge, and proceed up the driveway to the house in the distance. The driveway is lined with hemlocks and is a climb. If you don’t want as much of a climb go around the pond then up the back trail which comes back around to the house.

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The climb up the driveway through hemlocks

The original farmstead sits at the top of the hill, starting with the main house, (which can be toured – talk to the park rangers hanging out in the basement). There are various outbuildings near the house that were originally slave quarters and later under the Sandburgs became an overflow library and a chicken coop.

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Slave quarters turned chicken quarters

Following the gravel drive another set of restrooms in a white wooden building comes up, followed by a wooden spring house and an equipment shed. Behind the hedges further on lies a classic in ground greenhouse behind a hedge.  Across from green house is a green house that was once the abode of the goat farm manager – because rich people throughout history have always been too lazy to get up and actually deal with the less convenient parts of livestock ownership.

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Next comes the garage and behind it the most important part of the whole trip – the goat barn, (not pictured today because they are in the process of restoring it). When not being restored it has a large open loafing area with hay mangers. The old milking parlor is out back, along with acres of gorgeous pasture that has been managed for grass…because the park service doesn’t really get into goat management, but they know a good looking green lawn when they see one.  It is pretty…

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Buck sheds and vegetable garden

Anyway, the most athletic portion of the trip can be found by taking the path past the garden plots and the buck sheds, through the old fruit tree orchard, and past a small dammed pond.

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First pond behind the apple orchard

The trail splits, so go right and climb up Glassy Mountain on a snaking gravel walk way that pretty much never relents till you get to the top. There is a nice pond about 1/3 of the way up to stop and rest at though.

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Glassy Mountain Overlook

The overlook gives you a good view of the Hendersonville diaspora…then its back to take selfies with goats. Which is what you really came for anyway right?

BE WARNED

  1. The parking is limited and far from the main house. Come early!
  2. While the hike is dog and kid friendly, only the kids can go in to see the goats.
  3. It’s not really a warning, it’s a suggestion – if you like baked goods hit the bakery in Hendersonville before you head home. And the Mast General Store for hiking supplies. It’s a good spot to go on a quick supply run before you head back to the house after a day of goats…

In sum: 

Carl Sandburg’s only known poem about goats, despite a life time of living with them. I get the impression he wasn’t much on the species…

The sober-faced goat crops grass next to the sidewalk.
A clinking chain connects the collar of the goat with a steel pin
driven in the ground.
Next to the sidewalk the goat crops November grass,
Pauses seldom, halts not at all, incessantly goes after the grass.

—Carl Sandburg
from “Suburban Sicilian Sketches”

GEORGIA: Germany in Georgia

I once spent a very odd evening watching my husband play RISK (a board game of world domination) with his coworkers. The *ahem* winner *ahem* of this board game was a very nice and very german guy who choose to start out in:

A. Germany

B. Playing all the black pieces

C. Then proceeded to wage a nasty and bloody campaign of lightning destruction across the entire world map culminating in the unabashedly brutal subjugation of even his own wife while taunting the rest of the players for being inferior.

For a less…awkward…outing with your coworkers, check out Helen, GA – a rather embarrassing tribute to the only other things we Americans know about Germany – that it has fancy pastries, odd architecture, and lederhosen.

Oh, and outside this fake german town are some cool waterfalls.

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The German bakery in Helen, Georgia

Is it goat approved? I’d keep the goat at home for this one, unless you plan to teach it how to yodel.

How you get there: These hikes are all in the Helen diaspora. Google Helen,  then google Duke’s Creek Waterfall, its next door neighbor Raven Cliff Falls, and the famous Anna Ruby Falls north of Helen.

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Raven Cliff Falls Parking: 34.709535, -83.789066 (4.9 miles round trip out and back)

Duke’s Creek Falls Parking:  34.702030, -83.789232 (2.2 miles round trip out and back)

Anna Ruby Falls:  34.757196, -83.710484 (1 mile round trip)

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is 8 miles to go out and back to Duke’s Creek, Raven Cliff, and Anna Ruby Falls in total. Plus however much walking of the pseudo-german town of Helen, Georgia you are interested in.

Best season to do this hike: Spring or Fall. Avoid Oktoberfest because it raises the DUI rate and the traffic. Avoid summer because, well, where else are people going to go for a good time than a beer garden in Helen?


Trails to Take

RAVEN CLIFF FALLS

An easy trail winding along the river from the parking area to a final climb to the falls.

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Raven Cliff Falls

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DUKE’S CREEK FALLS

A continuous downward run with several switch backs. The climb back out is not hard, but continuous.

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Duke’s Creek Falls

Duke's Creek


ANNA RUBY FALLS

An easy uphill culminating in a very busy end platform.

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Anna Ruby Falls

Anna Ruby Falls

 

BE WARNED

  1. Anna Ruby Falls is $3 a head to get in regardless of how you get in, (car, walking, etc.) and is very popular. Go during an unpopular time.
  2. Duke’s Creek Falls is $4 a car to park, (its self service pay though). Raven Cliff Falls, its next door neighbor is free however.
  3. Helen, GA requires a $5 fee to park, though if you park behind the Hofer’s Bakery and get a spot its free so long as you are on the premises.
  4. For those into wildflowers check out the trilliums on the Anna Ruby Falls Trail.
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Anna Ruby Falls Trail trilliums

In sum: 

RISK is a game of world domination that teaches you a lot about your coworkers and the countries they come from.

Never challenge anybody from Germany or Africa. Ever.

 

GEORGIA: Check Out the Drought at John’s Mountain WMA

You may hear the recreational areas not devoted to the procurement of meat at John’s Mountian Wildlife Management Area called such unpleasant things as “The Pit” or “The Pocket”. I personally kept waiting on someone to refer to it as the “pimple”. Outside of a tremendously dry Fall they are probably absolutely delightful with all the neat water features listed on the map. Right now they look a bit like a government funded commercial to encourage water rationing though!

Is it goat approved? Not if you have a big goat. The trails are tight, especially the stairs to the falls.

How you get there: Google Pocket Rd, LaFayette, GA 30728. Then, look for the icon for “John’s Mountain Look Out Tower” to the west of this road. Google doesn’t show you the full gravel road up to the look out, but trust me, it’s there. If you drive down Pocket Road from the Villanow end the turning is well marked with a big sign that says “Look Out”. For the unfortunately named Pilcher’s Pond the pull off is south of the Look Out turn off about 1/2 a mile on your left.

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Time for hike: These are short sightseeing bits, so the most you can do is 5 miles to Keown Falls and back, and not even a mile to Pilcher’s Pond round trip.

Best season to do this hike: Any season but deer season as this is a WMA. Winter would probably be better because the views are better from the ridge line without leaves. Also, winter is rainy season in Georgia, so the falls might actually exist then.

Trails to Take

KEOWN FALLS

For Keown Falls, assuming your car related assets are up to it, drive up to the overlook parking area. You will know you are there because A. Continued driving plunges you to your doom and B. There’s a nice wooden overlook platform.

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Keown Falls when dry. You can just see the overlook above.

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Mountain Overlook At Parking Area

Then, lazy people can take the 1 mile trail down to the Keown Falls Loop, which is boring. You will find it on the opposite side of the parking lot from the overlook. Or you can take the 2.5 mile trail, which takes you past and over fun rocks and will have better winter time views. This is at the opposite end of the parking lot from where you entered, behind the unused trail kiosk and just beyond the radio tower building.

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Fall’s Overlook in summer

Either way, you end up at the Keown Falls Overlook, which in dry conditions, isn’t much of a view in terms of water, but has a gorgeous view of the valley. The rocky point behind it is also wonderful for views and nice burned out rocky terrain. To visit the Falls, descend the stairs beyond the overlook, and at the bottom go RIGHT. This trail is supposed to be a loop, but I never found the whole loop…the trail petered off into sun bleached overgrowth. It looked like it would be quite a climb to go around the whole thing.

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Overlook from rocky point above falls overlook

The falls should be dropping down from the roof of the first massive grotto you walk into. If it is dry, you will instead be in a very nifty cave. After you’re done taking selfies, return the way you came. The 1 mile trail on the way back to the parking lot is almost entirely up hill. There is also a side trail to nowhere that comes off of it.

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Map to Keown Falls  (not to scale)

 

PILCHER’S POND

More like Pilcher’s Puddle, this decimated body of water hosts more grasshoppers than stocked fish. However, it’s a nice little flat walk to do some exploring on. The first little pathetic pool of water is not the pond. You’re looking for the sort of pond that features on the bleak advertisements where the state government is trying to guilt trip you into conserving water!

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Pilcher’s dried out pond
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The man made watering hole that I guess makes up for the pond’s dryness
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Unmarked grave of a Pilcher family member at the pond
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Map to Pilcher’s Pond (not to scale)

BE WARNED

  1. The WMA hunting map is essentially useless. I have tried to mock up maps that more closely resemble the trails at the time of publication.
  2. The road to the overlook is not recommended for low ground clearance vehicles (i.e. your girl friend’s Mazda), or those with  bald tires, (your son’s second hand pickup). Or for any vehicle in heavy rain.
  3. Don’t walk up the gravel road to the overlook. The dust will suffocate you if a car comes by. Instead, take an off road trail.
  4. There are two trails to the falls. the one behind the parking lot is 1 mile one way. The one past the radio tower is 2.5 miles one way. Make your decision wisely.
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This trail system is part of the larger Pinhoti Long Distance Trail

In sum: We propose that Pilcher’s Pond be renamed “Pilcher’s Puddle” for the duration of the water rationing. Other options include “Pilcher’s Plain” or “The Disappointment of Pilcher”.

NORTH CAROLINA: Get Lost in the Labyrinth at Panthertown

If you survived high school after the 80s and hung out with the art kids, you have probably seen a really strange movie called “The Labyrinth”. This movie, for those not so unfortunate as to have set through it, includes David Bowie of all people as a goblin ruler dancing around in skin tight pants and 80s hair while the movie flashes back and forth between his surreal dance scenes and a teenage girl running through a giant, ugly maze populated by bizarre puppets. What can I say. It was the 80s.

The only real connection between this dreadful movie and Panthertown is that you will begin to feel like you got transported to an impossible labyrinth populated with random campers by some malignant forest spirit if you don’t bring a map for this one.

I personally recommend the map “A Guide’s Guide to Panthertown, Bonas Defeat & Big Pisgah” for this trip as it shows both social and forest service trails, and you will need social trails to reach most of these waterfalls. However, the recommended map does NOT include the blaze colors for the forest service official trails. You can pick one up at the Mast General Store in Hendersonville, NC.

 

Is it goat approved? Panthertown lies in the Natahala NATIONAL  Forest Ranger district. Unlike state forests national forests do not require permits in North Carolina to bring single pack goats onto the property, (I did actually contact them to check). In later posts I will be up here again doing different trails with a four legged minion in tow!

How you get there: Google Cold Mountain Gap Trailhead. This is near Lake Toxaway. Follow google! But ignore it’s directions when you are on Cold Mountain Road…it doesn’t seem to know exactly where you are when you are driving that one.

Time for hike: The distance for this hike is only around 3 miles. It is mostly out and back with LOTS of social trails, bushwhacking, and orienteering opportunities. This means it will take a lot longer than 3 miles usually does.

Best season to do this hike: Autumn is gorgeous. Summer can be kind of muggy and unpleasant. Winter is a viable option. Spring will net you some nice rhododendron blooms. In terms of traffic, summer and autumn are the most heavily trafficked, but on this route you can be guaranteed of meeting few people anyway since it utilizes a lot of off main trail pieces.

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Autumn in Panthertown at the powerline cut on trail #474 just before the switch backs

Trails to Take

The easiest way to get started on this waterfall rich hike is to walk straight down the gravel entrance road, and directly forward on Mac’s Gap Trail. You know you are on the right trail if not three seconds after passing off the gravel you are walking in a powerline cut and the trail runs directly beneath a tower holding up the powerlines. Continue on this trail looking for a side trail that may or may not be marked with pink ribbon that leads off through the mountain laurel. If the trail runs beside the river you’ve gone a bit too far – go back up hill and keep your eyes peeled.

Once you find this little social trail, continue following it through the mountain laurel along the river, with your ears open for the sound of waterfalls. Not more than a minute of walking after you get on the social trail you will hear Mack’s Falls. You can get down to the river via another social trail to check it out.

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Mack’s Falls

After you’ve enjoyed Mack’s Falls, continue down the river. You are listening for another waterfall now! The trail will be hard to follow in places, and it does climb up the hill sometimes if there is a sharp bend in the river that makes the bank too steep to follow. The next waterfall is Pothole Falls, which can be reached after about 5 minutes of mountain laurel crawling.

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Pothole Falls

After Pothole Falls just keep walking the river bank. The trail will become easier to walk, (fewer overhanging limbs and crawls under mountain laurel), and eventually you will start to hear people and lots of falling water. You are approaching School House Falls. At this point the social trail really truly looks like a trail. You will need to keep an eye out for a well worn trail heading DOWNHILL. The social trail you are currently on is going up hill – and that’s not where you want to go! The downhill trail you desire is BEFORE you are really on top of School House Falls. It is well worn.

Take this trail down and you will come up along side of School House Falls on the opposite bank from where the forest service trail reaches the falls. Usually there will be a lot of people here, so probably not the best place to stop for lunch. But the falls are cool.

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School House Falls

The trail continues on the opposite side of the river from where you came in on the social trail. This is a very well maintained trail with a boardwalk. Follow it. This should be trail 474. You will come up to a river crossing to your right. Ignore it. You want the second river crossing where the wooden bridge runs directly in front of you. Cross the bridge or use the gravel horse ford to the right of it. Either way you come up to the intersection of 474 (Panthertown Valley) and 451 (Powerline Road Trail).

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Warden’s Falls

You want to go right onto Powerline Road Trail (#451). Go up the mountain, pass North Road Trail (#453), and at a bend in the trail is a noticeable social trail leading down hill. This one will become faint as you go down, but listen for the waterfall. You will eventually reach Warden’s Falls. There is another social trail on the other side of Warden’s Falls that should go up to Devil’s Elbow Trail (#448). As memory serves it is at the TOP of the waterfall where you need to cross to find it.

Climb the steep, but short trail back up to Devil’s Elbow Trail. Go left, continuing down the trail. Look for your next social trail – which will lead you down to Jawbone Falls and Pitillo’s Pool. I found this trail the most difficult of all the social trails to follow. If you get lost, just keep heading down hill. There is a handy creek that if you hit upon it you can follow out to the river.

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Jawbone Falls and the Pitillo Pool

At this point you can go back out the way you came, or if like me you got kind of lost on your way in, follow the river bushwhack style. You’ll stumble on a campsite. Walk out of the campsite and into the river. There will be an obvious cascade down river, (Riding Ford Falls – not viewable) and across the river a large expanse of rock face and an obvious trail dumping out onto it. Walk down the river a few feet and look. You will see the actual forest service trail crossing just at the top of the cascade, (big holes among the mountain laurel). Stay on the east side of the river and walk up Riding Ford Trail (450) to Devil’s Elbow Trail (448). Go left, continuing down Devil’s Elbow.

This one will be more difficult. There are several drainage ditches running off the trail that look like social trails. Hint: If the trail ends after 5 feet…it is for drainage, not for people. After the drainage ditches end and you’ve walked for about 3-4 minutes, you should find the obvious social trail going down to Elbow Falls.

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Elbow Falls in Panthertown

After all the bushwhacking, you can easily return to the trailhead via Devil’s Elbow. Devil’s Elbow dead ends into another trail (#474), so hang a left to go back to the parking lot. There is a nice powerline cut based view before you reach all the switch backs.

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Trail Map At Trail Head

BE WARNED

  1. You will get lost. Everyone gets lost. Bring a good map specifically made for Panthertown and insure you have plenty of time to find your truck again. Or, alternatively, bring some extra food and see if one of the many campers in the forest will let you bunk with them for the night since your car is still mysteriously MIA.
  2. Bring a headlamp or light if you are planning to hike late in the day. The sun goes down fast in the mountains, and again, you’re probably going to be lost at some point.
  3. The usual thing about only let the water fall off the top of the waterfall and not you, your dog, or your sucker eating dependents.
  4. The parking area is small. Plan to park on the gravel access road instead of parking at the almost guaranteed to be filled parking lot.
  5. Watch for pink or orange ribbons on trees as you walk. These generally, (but not always), mark the entrance to social trails that lead down to interesting things like waterfalls, pools, and good campsites.

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In sum: If your husband follows you through a blackberry and chimney thorn infested bushwack when he knows you are totally lost and don’t have a clue what you are doing – and still doesn’t complain, you owe him a pizza. Maybe 2 pizzas.